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Writers in focus

Short Story (Kimura)

Peace, the Charm’s Wound Up
by Marianne Kimura

Sophia is a witch so she ought to be able to think of a spell to make all the plastic sheets vanish.

To that end, two small and stylish frosted glass goblets, filled with apple juice and ice, are on the kitchen table. One goblet has a golden sun embossed on it, the other has a silver moon surrounded by three stars. The goblets were left by a previous tenant.

Impromptu spells are not Sophia’s strong point. “We’ll link arms and drink”, she suggests. Tatsumi, her husband, laughs, “That’s what the Viking warriors did”, he says.

“I’ll have the cup with the moon”, continues Sophia smoothly ignoring him, “you get the one with the sun.” She places the sun one in front of him, the moon one in front of her.

Then she lays out three tarot cards on the table: The Moon, The Sun, The Stars. The tarot deck is based on Gustav Klimt’s romantic and sensuous paintings. The Sun depicts a slim naked couple embracing erotically in a spangled fireworks of gold; on The Stars two dozing women wearing golden bracelets and muumuus are posed on the background of a silvery night sky; The Moon has a blond nude woman curled up asleep against a sea of dark blue, a sparkling crescent moon unfolds behind her.

Tatsumi’s face lights up with amusement. Sophia ignores him again. “I’m not going to do a reading, they are just here for atmosphere and to lend cosmic power.”

She waves her arms over the table, the cups, the tarot cards, and intones, improvising, “Good-bye, plastic sheet! Good-bye! The plastic sheets will depart from our land!”

Tatsumi starts laughing and offers a stinging critique, “It sounds like a spell made up by a little child”.

“Never mind”, she retorts, now giggling a bit. “Drink!” she commands, unable to keep a straight face. She picks up the glass with the moon and Tatsumi obediently picks up the one with the sun. She snakes her arm through his and utters a quick toast. “To no more plastic sheets! To no more plastic!”

Tatsumi obediently repeats her words and they take a gulp of apple juice.

“Peace, the charm’s wound up!” she adds, remembering one of her favorite lines from Macbeth.

Spell done, Tatsumi gets up and starts to boil some water for soba noodles.

Sophia gets some cold leftover oatmeal out of the refrigerator, sits back down, and drizzles honey onto the oatmeal.

“It will sound crazy, maybe”, she says, watching the translucent honey spiral down in swirls, “but sometimes I wonder if maybe I am a nature spirit traveling through this world incognito”, she says, “I don’t feel like I really belong here.”

“Hmmmm…well, which particular nature spirit do you think you are?” her husband asks in his trademark teasing tone. He turns around, holding a handful of dried buckwheat noodles, “a centaur? A tengu? A fairy? An elf?”

“Well, don’t laugh”, she said, “but I think I’m one of the nymphs of the Goddess Diana. That’s why when we moved to this neighborhood I found the yomogi growing next to the path near the mountain behind our house. And the deer on the same mountain. Deer are sacred to Diana. Yomogi is called mugwort in English, but its Latin name is Artemisia, named after the goddess of the moon. Because the underside of the leaf has a whitish cast, as though moonlight is shining on it. And you know, the first thing I ever ate in Japan was a yomogi daifuku.”

Climbing up a large stairwell in Shinjuku Station, after taking the train from Narita, that day 29 years ago, they had come across a man standing behind a table with rows of mochi rice cakes, some green and some white. Sophia had stopped and pointed at the green ones and Tatsumi had bought her one. Crushed yomogi leaves had been intriguingly blended into the mochi rice. Thus, her first impression of Japan had been an old fashioned one, the sort of thing she had never ever seen in the States: a vendor selling homemade simple food not wrapped in plastic, from a little table. Tatsumi had been amused at the way an ordinary traditional food of his homeland had charmed her utterly.

“That was a key moment. I think I was being tested. I just didn’t recognize it at the time.” She takes a sip of the magical apple juice then starts talking again, like the professor she is.

“Years later, I started interpreting literature from the standpoint of a witch and, please remember, that it is all the references to the goddess Diana in Shakespeare’s plays written which support my ideas that the plays hide the Divine Feminine. It’s like one of those computer adventure games I played as a kid: get key, pick up box. Don’t you see? You do it and later it’s clear why it all happened that way. It’s a message. It’s magic!”
Eat mugwort daifuku.
Get key.
Investigate the Bard.
Find Diana.
Become a witch.

Tatsumi has heard her theory how the yomogi daifuku in Shinjuku Station was some sort of message from the spirit world, but he realizes now Sophia is taking the whole far-out theory further by actually suggesting that she is working for the goddess Diana and now incarnated as an ordinary mortal, a humble scholar of Shakespeare. It had been a turning point in Sophia’s life when Macbeth revealed itself to her as a guide to magic and witchcraft.
Peace, the charm’s wound up.

“Well, of course, I have no proof, of course, except, well, I was born in July, under Cancer the crab―that’s the sign of the moon”, she says, stirring the golden yellow honey, one of her favorite things in the world, into the thick oatmeal with satisfaction.

Tatsumi is distracted by his noodles now boiling over. He turns down the heat, and the foaming bubbles sink peacefully. He is hoping Sophia that will similarly just calm down and forget all about her agitation, her unprovable theories, her airy nothing ideas.

Sophia, perhaps getting the hint, quietly sprinkles spices, cardamom, cinnamon, allspice on top of the oatmeal.

A comfortable and peaceful silence ensues. Tatsumi drains the noodles and chops some negi onions to put on top of the noodles. But as soon as he sits down to eat, Sophia starts talking again with more updates of witchy and supernatural news from her life.

“Another thing. Last week I went to that store near Yasaka Jinja on Shijo, I was thinking I ought to buy moonstones, if I really am to be a witch serving the goddess of the moon, but I just didn’t feel like they suited me and bought these amethyst earrings instead…”

Sophia tugs at the purple hexagonal stones dangling from her ears. Tatsumi politely looks up from his smartphone to glance at them.

“….But then, amazingly, just out of curiosity, when I got home I looked up the Greek myth of how amethysts were created. A young Greek woman named Amethyst was on her way to Diana’s temple and was chased by Dionysus who wanted her to go to one of his parties. Dionysus almost caught her but Diana changed her into a clear crystal. Then Dionysus caught up to her, and poured his purple wine on her, changing the crystals forever to purple. My favorite color, by the way. So no matter what I do, I seem to be surrounded by things related to Diana.”

Sophia gets up and puts organic cocoa powder in a cup, adds a little water and some soymilk and two large spoons of honey, “I know I’m obviously an ordinary mortal person. That’s clear. The question is if I’m also some sort of spirit. It would make sense. It would explain everything, actually.”

But Tatsumi, now scrolling through Yahoo news on his phone, is only half listening.

He wasn’t a bad person, not unkind, Sophia knew. He just wasn’t a radical activist witch like she was. He wanted peace and safety and stability. But she had to trust him and ask him to help her. She had no one else she could ask.

And she had so much to do. The worst, most awful, soul-crushing thing now was the huge heavy dark green plastic sheet covering a piece of land near a river three or four houses away from them. She wanted it gone.

No one but her husband could help her write and also sign letters in his name. Writing letters was one of her activist activities on behalf of the bugs, the birds, the animals. She didn’t just need his Japanese language writing skills: she was also afraid of being noticed by the government.

Japan was a lovely country, with many really kind people, but the government was basically run by the construction and chemical industries. It was radical collective capitalism. She didn’t think she’d be deported for speaking her mind but who could be sure? Some Americans who had staged demonstrations against the cruel dolphin hunts in Taiji had been deported.

The land near the river had started out as a large field, but the rapacious Japanese construction industry had turned that into twelve plastic houses and a long apartment complex, though there were empty and abandoned houses scattered everywhere in every neighborhood.

Building on green land was cheaper of course. The government provided free money to any construction company that wanted to build anywhere. Construction companies were the preferred route to stimulate economic activity.

Sophia had speculated on why that was. Why couldn’t the government send money to ordinary people to buy rice, clothes, land to grow food on, books?

Sophia guessed it was to do with power. The construction companies had a lot of political power, and they used a lot of heavy equipment, so they could promise that they’d spend the government’s money on new bulldozers, trucks, cranes, drills, concrete and such. The politicians were friends with all the people running the companies involved. It was a cozy world of favors, back-scratching, familiarity, paternalism and patriarchy. Factories, cars and machines were to be privileged above all else.

And the whole scene was also probably dictated by global financial markets beyond the shores of Japan. Sophia didn’t know the particulars, but she thought it was very likely that the people working on Wall Street and Washington and Europe and other financial and policy centers all over the world had their elegant fingers in this particular pie.

The toxic result was that all over Japan there were millions and millions of empty houses, shops and apartments. The country was immensely overbuilt. Green land was precious and beautiful, but the construction companies had all the power, so nothing ever changed and new houses were built on green places while millions of old houses were vacant. All the vacant houses and their land totalled a land area equal to the whole of the island of Kyushu.

And as for the little piece of land near her, after all the houses and apartments had been built on that little parcel of land, there had been one little odd strip of green land left, too small to be built on. Actually, it was quite big. It was maybe 300 meters long and 15 meters wide and it stretched down along the little river. You could hardly say it was a riverbank, because the river had steep artificial concrete sides, and the land was not sloping down naturally to meet the sides, but perched perpendicularly on top of the concrete, on the south bank of the river.

But with grasses and flowers, this narrow strip of land could have easily supported many, many ants, worms, grubs, grasshoppers, butterflies, crickets and be a home and larder for quite a few birds. It would be able to filter water, to cool the land, and to be a beautiful little piece of nature, spiritually encouraging to anyone who happened to see it. It was easily visible from the small bridge that spanned the river.

But it was covered with heavy green plastic, so it could do none of its magical natural functions. It was, for all purposes, a dead zone. Every time Sophia crossed the bridge, she had to avert her eyes from the plastic sheet zone. She felt so guilty, so upset, by this cruelty humans were perpetrating on nature just out of greed and laziness. She could hear the bugs and the worms moaning and screaming, buried under the thick green swathe of plastic. She could hear the plants shrieking, a mournful vibrating cry of many small voices, trying to seek the light and finding only heavy malignant plastic blocking the beautiful sun and the soft rain.

Sophia shuddered to think of the seeds carried on wind eddies and dropped from the sky onto the cold plastic, instead of soil. They all withered and died.

In truth, there were three or four other similar sheets of plastic, almost as large as this one, near their house and all of them troubled her and bothered her. One was on a slope reaching down to the drainage gutter next to the narrow asphalt path that circled the base of the small mountain near their house. One was on a strip of land next to a fence that enclosed land that belonged to the emperor. One was near another river. All of them were affronts to nature, symbols of human’s cruelty and lack of care for the other-than-human beings of the planet.

These creatures were already suffering major die-offs. Bugs had declined by 30% or 40% in some places in the country over the past few years, and it showed. Honeybees, ladybugs, butterflies, moths, praying mantises, and even mosquitoes, were rare now. Sparrows, common just seven or eight years ago, were no longer spotted hopping on pathways. The din of frogs that one used to hear during the rainy season was gone. The sound of cicadas was no longer a roar but just a little dim whirring sound. Nature was dying everywhere.

She felt this decline acutely and almost personally. Her sense of loss, injury and dread was almost personal. And it was this feeling of being wounded and suffering that made her think that logically, though she had no real proof, she might be a reincarnated nature spirit. Surely she could not truly be one of the humans.

Tatsumi had sent her letter complaining about the plastic sheet (which he’d translated into Japanese) to the City Office and received just a phone call from a city office bureaucrat explaining that it was now city policy to provide the sheets to prevent weeds.

She had tried bringing around a petition for neighbors to sign, and though people had been polite and generally signed it, it was clear that they didn’t care about the disappearing nature at all.

So she had given up, but she was still plotting, vaguely, against the plastic sheet.

She can’t say that she is a failure as a neighborhood activist. The truth is that she seems to be the only one who cares. For these sheets are popping up in all sorts of other places too: outside apartment buildings, on the perimeters of farmer’s fields.

She decides to make a cup of cocoa. While she is stirring the tiny black chia seeds into the cocoa, a totally irrational image pops into her head.
Black-clad figures covered from head to toe in material that swallows up their shapes race from one spot to another. They carry some small scissors and they cut the plastic away, freeing the soil, the plants, the tiny animals, the insects.

“I know what we can do”, she exclaims in excitement. Tatsumi looks up from his phone. “We’ll be like ninjas. We’ll dress in black and in the middle of the night, we’ll take the plastic away with scissors or shears”.

“But we’ve written a letter with your name on it, you’ve taken a petition around. The Shiyakusho people will guess who did it. It won’t be seen as a joke or as a light matter.”

She wants to cry. “Well, we can’t just give up!”

She feels the weight of all the innocent sweet natural beings who can’t have a home thanks to her inability to solve the problem and lift the tons of horrible plastic off of them.

Oh, when will the economy just go ahead and collapse so her agony can end? Then the stupid people who don’t care about nature won’t have any money for plastic. Then the plastic can’t be manufactured because the factories will all be shut down.

She knows objectively that is an antisocial thought, but at the same time, it’s not crazy at all. (That’s what is so crazy, really. This is the weird and schizophrenic era they are living in. Headlines scream “Collapse!” “Climate change disaster!” and “Apocalyptic forest fires!” but then people, including her, just go on about their ordinary lives, while sadly shaking their heads.)

“Look, Sophia”, Tatsumi says, “I agree with you about the awfulness of the plastic sheet. I do. I hate it as much as you do. But the people who want that sheet are in control of this situation and they have the power.”

She knows he is right. The plastic is all over Japan, behind apartment buildings, along the sides of roads. Like a successful monster which ate everything, and still eats it every day, slothfully reclining yet motionless as a lumpy carpet.

No one can stop it. It will go on just as long as it can and then it, too, will die, if a substance such as plastic can be said to die.

In her mind’s eye she sees, decades from now, a future landscape where the plastic is thin, ragged and tattered, the houses and apartments mostly empty. Then all empty.

Already many houses in her neighborhood are vacant. And there are more each year. Vines cling to the front doors, grasses sway in the small gardens that were so neatly tended just a few years ago. One house near her has a gigantic black mould spot, the thumb print of a greasy giant, on the outer wall on the second floor.

Another has, inexplicably, a heap of old broken gilt wooden picture frames and a battered plastic broom near its faded wooden front door.
For years, a frail but cheerful old woman with thinning permed and dyed red hair and a diligent yet absent-minded air, called out greetings to everyone passing by. Now her mailbox has a long strip of plastic tape covering its slot to prevent the delivery of junk mail. Her house stands empty, curtains permanently drawn.

Sophia has no idea if the woman died or if her relatives moved her into a nursing home. But somehow, that strip of fading green plastic on the mailbox she now realizes can surely be taken, along with everything else, as a sign from the gods.

******************

For more by Marianne Kimura, please see her story of Last Snow,; an account of how her second novel, The Hamlet Paradigm, was taken up by an independent publisher; her double life as academic and fiction writer; her third prize winning entry for the Writers in Kyoto Competition; an extract from a work in progress, Seven Forms of Infiltrationan interview with her about goddesses and ninjas; or an extract from her first novel, The Hamlet Paradigm. For her original story, Kaguya Himeko, please see here.

artwork by Gustav Klimt

Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

Short Story by Peter Macintosh

Ichi-go Ichi-e – A Serendipitous Encounter

(Photos by Peter Macintosh)

I read the bestselling novel Memoirs of a Geisha many years ago. The book was so popular it even made it onto Carmela’s bedside table in an episode of The Sopranos. The story describes the struggles of a poor young girl in the early 1900’s, sold into a life of misery and servitude in which her perseverance pays off when she becomes a geisha and can finally be together with her Prince Charming. A Japanese Cinderella story of sorts, which is probably why it appealed to me (and millions of others) when I read it as a teenager. Who would have thought that years later I would actually be on a plane heading to Kyoto, Japan, the setting of this tale in which the little girl Chiyo, the protagonist of the story, develops into the beautiful geisha Sayuri? Maybe a little naively, I hoped that perhaps I would be lucky enough to see, snap a photo, or even meet a real geisha during my short visit. Of course, I had thoroughly researched this on the internet and Wikipedia. Still, I knew in my heart that it would be unlikely. So, I would just have to be satisfied with images or serendipitous encounters. And, I promised myself that I would not be fooled by the hordes of tourists who audaciously run around in cheap, brightly coloured rent-for-the-day ‘kimonos,’ and take selfies that are often mistaken for geisha that you see plastered all over Instagram and people’s blogs.

While I was wandering aimlessly around some back streets with my 35mm camera dangling around my neck, a stylishly dressed young woman who appeared to be in her late 20’s approached me and asked what I was looking for or if I needed directions. Feeling a little foolish and a bit shy but full of conviction, I told her what I was doing. ‘I’m looking for geisha.’ She politely told me that they were called maiko and geiko in Kyoto. I was a little embarrassed that I hadn’t remembered that. Looking a little surprised, she then mentioned, without telling me what she did for a living, that she was on her day off and that she had spent some time abroad and spoke a bit of English. She then kindly offered to show me around the geisha districts or hanamachi (flower districts) as they are known in Japan. She introduced herself as Hinako, and our adventure began.

We moved through narrow alleyways lined with red paper lanterns. She pointed out the teahouses where the geisha entertained and even where they lived and went to school. She was very knowledgeable. I wanted to ask her why, but I didn’t want to be rude and interrupt, so I kept silent and listened to her explanations.

While we walked, I felt there was something special about Hinako. She was constantly greeting and being greeted by people who at first glance appeared to be just random elderly shopkeepers; some were even dressed in beautiful silk kimono, but all had their hair in immaculate coiffures. ‘Were the women in kimono geiko?’ I asked, deliberately emphasizing the word ‘geiko’ she had taught me minutes before. ‘Yes, they all are, and still are. All are senior geiko,’ she replied, shooting me a look of approval for remembering the correct term. 

This puzzled me. How could they be? There was no white makeup. They just looked like ordinary Japanese shopkeepers. And, only a few of them were in kimono. I mentioned that I was a little disappointed that they were not the porcelain-faced dolls always trying to break through the walls of tourists I saw online. She politely explained that the senior geiko were usually musicians, shamisen players or singers who didn’t wear the white makeup anymore except for special or formal occasions. She continued by pointing out that it was still a bit early to see maiko en route to their engagements because evening entertainment starts around 6:00 pm. I guess she noticed my disappointment and felt sorry for me because she took out her phone and began showing photos of maiko and geiko – this time in their white makeup, of course. There were dozens of photos. So, I took my iPad out of my bag and began showing my collection of geisha maiko and geiko images that I’d downloaded from the internet. She was pretending to be just as captivated with them as I was. Suddenly Hinako giggled as I came across one particular image and commented on how beautiful they were. I didn’t even know if they were ‘real’ geisha. I had heard that many tourists dressed up and walked through the streets getting portraits done. She then asked me which one I thought was the prettiest. I replied, ‘All of them.’ For the first time, she looked a little disappointed. However, she soon regained her smile, and we quietly continued walking in the hot sun. After a few minutes of trying to absorb and make sense of what was going on, I asked her why she knew everybody. She casually brushed it off as Kyoto being a sort of village where everybody knows everybody else, and their private matters as well. Especially in Gion.

Patting her brow with a light-coloured handkerchief, she then asked me if I would like to take a rest at one of her favourite cafés. Understanding fully that she was getting tired of acting as my personal tour guide and probably needed a break herself, I had no objection to her suggestion and said, ‘That would be great. It’s quite hot, and I’m a little jetlagged, too.’

We went down another side street to a little wooden house. She opened the latticed sliding door and said, ‘Tadaima‘ (I’m back) and was welcomed by a little old lady in kimono with a cheerful ‘Okaeriyasu‘ (Welcome back, in the Kyoto dialect). The shop was slightly air-conditioned but wasn’t the refreshing oasis I would have preferred.

Hinako grabbed my hand and took me to the wooden booth in the back of the shop. On our way, we passed a wall with dozens of white rounded fans with beautiful writing on them. There must have been close to a hundred, all arranged in perfectly straight rows. It was almost like there was a specific order to the arrangement. Before we sat down, she pulled out a light blue handkerchief and gave it to me without saying a word. I guess I was sweating a little more than I thought. Putting her phone on the table, she called out to the old woman, ‘Matcha aisu o futastsu kudasai‘ (Two matcha iced teas, please). ‘Ookini‘ (Thank you) came the reply from somewhere inside the shop.

Hinako then took out her fan, unfolded it and began fanning the both of us. ‘Atsu-osu ne!’ then corrected herself, ‘I mean, it’s hot, isn’t it?’ Still fanning herself with one hand, she picked up her phone decorated with sparkling sequins in the shape of an owl, ‘I’m sorry, but I have to check my messages.’ ‘No problem. Me too.’ I pretended to do the same, knowing full well that I had no messages because I forgot to buy a new SIM card. The proprietress brought over two largish, round ceramic bowls and set them down in front of us. 

Hinako looked up from her phone for a second and said, ‘Ookini, okaasan,’ and went back to checking her messages. There was one large ice cube in what looked like a frothy pond. I had had matcha green tea many times but only hot up until then. But this was Kyoto, and Kyoto was famous for its green tea. I’m sure it would be tasty, I thought. Realising she was being a little rude, she said ‘Sorry,’ cupped the tea bowl with both hands, took a sip, and with a big smile said ‘Oishii‘ (Delicious).

Following her lead, I picked up my bowl, brought it to my lips, and took in the fresh smell of the matcha. I had tasted it many times before, but Kyoto matcha green tea was much more enjoyable. ‘Oishii,’ I said, mimicking her intonation, and we both looked at each other, nodded in agreement and giggled.

Suddenly the table began to vibrate, and her phone started humming. Looking a bit embarrassed, she stood up, politely excused herself, and went outside. After a few moments, I saw her motioning the proprietress to come out. They talked briefly, and with a glance towards me and an apologetic bow to both myself and the proprietress, she disappeared down the alleyway. I was a bit confused and began to feel a little uncomfortable. I didn’t have very much money on me and didn’t know whether I would be able to pay the bill, so I slowly sipped my iced matcha tea in a cold sweat.

Noticing my discomfort, the proprietress came over as if apologetically, motioned me to slide around and sat next to me. She then handed me a charming little chirimen silk crepe case with some Japanese characters embroidered on it. ‘Beautiful,’ I said. 

Nodding her head and smiling in agreement, she said, ‘Dozo, naka o mite okureyasu‘ (Please look inside) while gesturing to do so with her hands. I unfolded the crepe case and carefully slid out a piece of meticulously folded notepaper. It had little round white fans on it. As I began to open it, a small rectangular piece of paper fell out and floated down to the floor. ‘Gomen nasai‘ (I’m sorry), I apologized in my well-practiced but broken Japanese. 

Rolling her eyes but still smiling, she bent over, picked up the sticker and told me it was a Senjafuda. She then pointed to the beautiful calligraphy and said, ‘Neemu karudo,’ which I took to be some form of business card. It had the same kanji characters as on the case. 

The note said. ‘Sorry I have to leave. My teacher called me. I paid for the tea. Please watch Mamehina on YouTube. Please Take Care.’ This was accompanied by a tiny heart drawn at the bottom.

I couldn’t wait to see what she meant by watching YouTube. Obviously, there was no Wi-Fi in the small café. I didn’t even see a TV like you do in most mom-and-pop shops. So, with no possible way of getting online in my current situation and my curiosity piqued, I decided to head back to my Airbnb rental. The geisha safari would have to be put off until after dinner. And, if truth be told, I genuinely felt jetlag coming on, so I decided to take a taxi. To avoid any possible communication problems, I had prepared a printout of the lodgings I would be staying at with the address written in Japanese, and handed this to the taxi driver. I arrived safely at my newly renovated machiya townhouse, and entered the security code. Then, as I slid open the door, I said ‘Tadaima‘ (I’m home) even though I knew that nobody would answer back. But, it did make me feel like I was in Japan. I went to the living room, knelt at the small, low traditional dinner table, and flipped open my laptop. Then I carefully typed in ‘M-a-m-e-hi-na’. I still hadn’t figured out exactly what or who Mamehina was. Surprisingly, a video came up. So, I clicked on it and then clicked the skip ads tab.

Suddenly traditional Japanese music began. I think it was the shamisen. A large curtain began to rise, and there was a woman elegantly dressed in emerald green, standing center stage between two others equally impressive looking. I assumed they were geiko. They glided effortlessly across the stage with the weighted hem of their kimonos trailing behind them. The woman who started in the center began weaving between the other two dancers, with precisely choreographed movements slightly touching the other on the shoulder, signalling them to follow behind her. This continued until the music gradually faded away. The camera then zoomed in individually on the dancers as they kneeled and prepared to bow. It wasn’t until just before the curtain fell that I noticed that the one in the middle looked familiar. I went back and replayed the ending. ‘Yes!’ I said out loud to myself. I knew I recognised the middle dancer. It was Hinako, and Mamehina must be her geiko name, I thought. The whole day started to make sense now.

Kyoto Journal 100

KJ 100 / ‘100 Views of Kyoto’
By Ken Rodgers

A very special celebratory print issue of Kyoto Journal

No one on the Kyoto Journal production team has been watching the virtual Olympics. We’ve been too busy wrestling our next issue into shape, for a strict print deadline.

 (Yes, print!)

Since it also happens to be our one hundredth issue—a milestone we never foresaw reaching—we set out to compile a kaleidoscopic compendium in the tradition of ­the many “100 Views” woodblock series, presenting a diversity of perspectives on a specific theme. In this case, a fresh assemblage of views, voices, reminiscences, personal observations and descriptions (many written or adapted especially for KJ100), sketches, photographs, historical and literary quotes (including brief excerpts from KJ back issues and other relevant sources), all intended to evoke by their juxtaposition the unique spirit of Kyoto. (While also intentionally avoiding the all-too-familiar tropes of ‘ancient capital,’ and ‘cultural heart of Japan’…)

Kyoto is of course both Kyoto Journal’s hometown and its overall defining influence. Since our first issue, published in 1987, KJ has explored and depicted innumerable aspects of Kyoto, honoring the city’s rich heritage while also attempting to envisage Kyoto both within its historical context in Japan, and within the bigger picture of life in Asia.

One of the most difficult parts of presenting KJ100 to our mostly intensely Kyotophile readership has been the search for a cover image that represents the essence of this entire city, an entity that remains almost indefinable in its diversity. We’ll be posting our final choice on KJ’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/kyoto.journal/), in advance of release.

We expect the magazine to be published in September, in bookstores and through our website, www.kyotojournal.org. (A page for pre-orders is under construction.)

Did I mention that this will be a limited edition, of over 140 pages? Or that it will be printed by Kyoto’s pre-eminent art printer, SunM, meaning the image quality of this very visual issue will be phenomenal? Or that with Japan currently closed indefinitely to visitors, this may be one of the best ways for anyone residing elsewhere to encounter and experience present-day Kyoto? (Great value as a present, too!)

You’ll find at least a hundred (and probably more) different reasons to enjoy this issue. We like to think it will be more tangible, and lasting, than the Olympics. We think you’ll like the cover, too.

—Ken Rodgers, KJ managing editor

Black Dragonfly

Book review by Jann Williams of Black Dragonfly by Jean Pasley (Balestier Press, 2021)

Black Dragonfly is a book of rich imagination, inspired by and incorporating the work of Patrick Lafcadio Hearn (1850 – 1904). Hearn, of Greek-Irish heritage, spent the last 14 years of his life in Japan, recording aspects of Japanese life that he found beguiling and at times bewildering. The 14 books, and numerous newspaper articles and lectures he produced, captured a period of rapid change and have been a source of influence, delight and debate ever since. Jean Pasley draws on Hearn’s time in Japan to offer insights into his character and inner thoughts. In doing so she weaves in earlier, at times traumatic, experiences in Europe, the USA and the Caribbean that helped shape him as a person. A masterful blend of fact, fiction and feelings, Black Dragonfly takes storytelling to another level.

The nature of the man who was Hearn has intrigued writers almost as much as his writing, perhaps more. Black Dragonfly joins two recent novels where the authors explore Hearn’s complex and enigmatic character from differing angles. Roger Pulvers (2011), in The Dream of Lafcadio Hearn, tries to answer the question of why Hearn found solace for his imagination and respect for himself only in Japan, as well as what it means to be a foreigner in any land, in any era. The story is written from a first-person perspective. In contrast Monique Truong (2020), in her book The Sweetest Fruits, envisions Hearn’s storied life from the viewpoint of his Greek mother and American and Japanese wives. Jean’s novel takes readers on a different and distinctive journey. It is a love story at heart, bringing to the fore Hearn’s relationship with Koizumi Setsuko whom he married in Matsue, Japan in 1891. This partnership changed his life immeasurably.

Poetic references to singing insects and dragonflies appear throughout Jean’s novel. Her evocative language is captivating. For example, on page 96, “The spectrally slender Emperor dragonfly was the most beautiful. It gleamed with indescribable metallic colours”. Hearn was intrigued by the beauty, sound and symbolism of insects; they were one of the many unfamiliar aspects of Japanese culture he observed and wrote of. The black dragonfly of the novel’s title is associated with both life and death, a reminder to make the most of each day. It is also used as a metaphor for the importance of having children in a land where ancestor-worship is deeply embedded. Family is central to the novel, with Lafcadio – who formally changed his name to Koizumi Yakumo – and Setsuko having four children before his death aged 54. Their descendants have been instrumental in keeping the Hearn/Koizumi legacy alive.

Hearn’s stories and impressions of the numerous countries he lived in makes him identifiable to, and scrutinised by, many people. His unique depictions of traditional Japanese culture continue to be of great appeal, especially the spiritual and supernatural elements. Collaborations between Japan, Greece, Ireland and the USA have flourished in the last decade through the creation of museums, memorials (including a biographical garden), exhibitions, symposiums, publications and artistic/philosophical ventures. Black Dragonfly adds a new and compelling perspective to the resurgent interest in Hearn’s life and works. Jean’s portrayal captures his nuanced and multi-layered character, that of an outsider, through engaging, elegant prose and immersive historical fiction.

Jann Williams
July 27, 2021

Writers in focus

Clouds of Illusion

Poems and Images by James Woodham

clouds of illusion
changing slowly as the sky
sculptures of the wind

insubstantial moon
on a canvas of pure blue
the faintest brushwork

try painting rainbows!                        
for a moment it was there              
now just a memory
                           
the stillness profound –
mountains under the blue sky
moving deep within

mountains range
the staggering blue expanse
brocading autumn

weather sensory –
flowers bend along the breeze
the bees follow

butterfly flutters
a tangled path through bamboo
alights on a leaf

the bent old lady
talks to the crows and feeds them
with her wisdom

black cat sitting
in the middle of the road
wonders who I am

travelers of the sky
wisps of beard that drift and flow
letting it all go

bass gleaming green                                                   
pulled from the lake – I with my eye                         
fish the image     

moon hangs in the blue
tobi glides the empty sky
the lake levelling                                                                                        

dragonfly hovers 
at the edge of evening
grey waves glide in

cool evening breeze
the lake rolling siver-grey
pine trees wait for rain

lake a bolt of blue
water hardly audible 
waves barely there

through the pine trees
sunbeams and smoke drifting
a bird takes flight

grey sky, grey water
heron unfurls long grey wings
flaps away lazy

royal messenger –
kingfisher streaks turquoise
across the water

crow tracking me down
through pine tree territory
caws his discontent

this stand of pine trees – 
sentinels of the long shore
waiting for all time

**********************

For previous posts by James Woodham, please see the striking poems and stunning photography here.  Or here. Or here. Or here. For his previous posting, A Single Thread, see here, and for The Wind’s Word click here.

Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

A Runner in Yamazaki

by Michael Greco

The neighbors call me the marathon runner.

Almost every afternoon at dusk I run from the house, through the neighborhood, across a street, then under the JR and Hankyu lines. It’s about five minutes of exercise to that point.

And I’m slow. Real slow.

The chatty gal across the street from our house calls out, “Lots of running, but you’re not slim. You don’t have the body of a runner.”

What gall. She’s old, I’m old, everybody’s old. We’re old people and say what we want.

I live below a mountain called Tenno-zan in the city of Yamazaki, in Kyoto. We wouldn’t call it a mountain in the West, but a Japanese friend once made the distinction to me by saying that if it’s not cultivated to any noticeable degree, then it’s a mountain.

I’m happy with that delineation. I like living under a mountain.

My run continues, and I jump a series of large stone slab-like steps with some zest because this is the most satisfying part of the routine. The jumping is fun.

After the stone slabs I’m winded and walk slowly past a sign that warns of perverts (Chikan Chui!) to a clearing that overlooks my town of Yamazaki. I do a few simple stretches there next to a little fence that protects the ruins of many old roof-tile kilns, built in the Heiankyo period.

Out of my own neighborhood now, I become a familiar stranger. The same people are out, jogging lightly like myself or walking their dogs. One woman walks her cat. There are few people about up here at the base of Tenno-zan and that’s a big part of the charm of this routine.

Next, I commence the second part of the run, puffing my way higher up the mountain and then skirting the base of the temple (called Hoshakuji), where my family enjoys ringing the temple gong every New Years. The wife and daughter are now in Malaysia—our twelve-year-old studies at an American school in Kuala Lumpur. They took the cat, too, so I’m alone, tinkering about in a big, old house. But I continue the custom, ringing the gong to bring in this year, and I will do so again for next year. It’s a Greco family tradition.

After this second short run (though most would not call it that), I reward myself by sitting on a cement pylon at the top of another set of stone steps. Here, I catch my breath, and allow myself to do some lingering dreaming. I’m up fairly high now, and a good deal of Kyoto opens below me.

There is an uguisu, or bush warbler, a small green fellow that’s been chirping away in the nearby trees every day since early March. It has such a beautiful call. Is it lonely? Has it lost a mate? Does it have a family?

An elderly man passed me on the pylon a month back and descended the stairway, then paused, squinting, trying to find the source of that beautiful call.

“You can’t see it,” I said to the man. “It’s impossible. I’ve been trying to spot it since spring.”

The man chuckled, and continued carefully down the steps.

Located roughly midway between Osaka and Kyoto, Yamazaki can’t really boast of much—for tourists, anyway—other than the Suntory distillery and the Asahi art museum. This place is really all about the mountain. One can just feel the aged wisdom of Tenno-zan, this grand, old sage.

Many know of the famous Battle of Yamazaki five-hundred years ago. One can gaze down at the site of the battle, fall back all those centuries and imagine the clashing legions below. The mountain has its unique place in the history of this region, and it’s earned a certain prerogative.

After my five minutes of reflection, I walk back down to the base of the mountain, past the Chikan Chui! sign, under the train tracks, and across the road.

Back on flat ground for the final leg, I run again. This is my three-minute dash home, once more through the neighborhood. I wave at the people, but I don’t stop, so serious a runner I am. I make it back home, about twelve minutes of run time total, though I’ve been gone a half-hour. It’s not exactly Olympic training.

“It’s a shame they cancelled the Kyoto Marathon again, isn’t it,” one neighbor laments to me as I’m undergoing my final leg stretches.

I agree, pretending I had every intention of joining the marathon. Piece of cake!

It’s a lie, of course, I can’t really run. I’m as far from a marathon runner as a bush warbler is from an eagle. But they never see that. They only see me running through the neighborhood and make assumptions that I have this lasting quality of physical gumption, something I’ve never possessed. I’m no marathon man. I’m the stretching and sitting on a pylon man, a dreaming man. But it’s my secret.

Only one neighbor seems to suspect, the chatty gal across the street. “He doesn’t have a runner’s body,” she clucks to another neighbor, unmindful if I overhear or not.

Old people are like old mountains—we’ve earned that prerogative.

***********************

For an interview with Michael Greco about his writing, please click here.

8/1 Zoom with Rebecca Otowa

SUNDAY AUGUST 1, 2021
8:00-9:00 pm Japan Time

coming home far from home: meet the memoir writer’s series II

Interview with Rebecca Otowa, author of AT HOME IN JAPAN, hosted by Goshen Books

Free and open to the public

To reserve your spot: hello@goshenbooks.com

(The following originally appeared on the Goshen Books website)

Rebecca Otowa was born in 1955 in California, and at age 12 moved to Australia with her family. After graduating BA (Hons. Japanese Language and Literature) from Queensland University, she received a scholarship to study in Japan and went to Kyoto in 1978, abandoning her first preoccupation, orchestral music. She graduated MA (Japanese Buddhism) from Otani University and thereafter never left Japan.

While a student, she met Toshiro Otowa, an engineering student who was besotted by Australia, and with each other’s culture as a bond, they started dating and were married in 1981.

In 1986 the little family, which now included two sons, moved back to his ancestral home in Shiga Prefecture, adjacent to Kyoto, and set up housekeeping with his mother. Rebecca has lived there ever since, writing, drawing, teaching English, working in her garden, and participating in various local groups.

To date she has published three books, At Home in Japan (essays, Tuttle 2010), My Awesome Japan Adventure (children’s book, Tuttle 2013) and The Mad Kyoto Shoe Swapper (short stories, Tuttle 2019). All are illustrated by the author. She has also painted over 50 pictures of various genres, and held 2 shows (2015 and 2019).

***********************

To learn about the artwork of Rebecca, see this page.
For the report of a lunch talk by Rebecca, click here.

Authors who belong to Writers in Kyoto

Just Like This (Eric Bray)

Lyrics and songs by Eric Bray

Photos by Dale Ward

Eric writes: “Over the past year I worked with producers and musicians mainly in the US to create a bit of fusion between my interests in Latin dance music and folk/rock.’

******************

The title track ‘Just Like This’ runs as follows: (for the music, check out this youtube page)

Waking to the morning light
Lying there wondering why
This is so easy to forget

I want to walk the streets like this
Under crimson clouds
your kiss your kiss

Lying on our backs like this
Laughing at the stars so far out of reach
Like this, just like this.

Beautiful Venus shining so bright
You ask where
The wonder goes

We stand and share a smile
I take your hand
And into the night we go

Into the night
Into the night
We go

Into the night
Into the night
Into the night
Where the wonder goes

I want to fall asleep like this
In your arms like this
Like this just like this
Like this like this

*********************

Eric writes:’ Two of our esteemed local Kyoto musicians, Gary Tegler on sax and Dale Ward on acoustic guitar, play on the Jazz/Blues track “Love you Enough”.’ (Listen on youtube here.)

You’re sitting there crying say you don’t know why
Got that thinking about leaving look in your eye
What the hell is wrong tonight
Not even sure I want to know why this time
This time………This time

Watch your step on this rocky road
I’m doing my best so that we don’t fall
But if you want to run away
I can’t promise that I’ll say please stay this time
This time…This time..This time

Wind and Rain, Stones and Fire
Can’t keep me satisfied
I need your touch, need your desire
I need your sweet little hand in mine
In mine….this time.

Watch your step on this slippery slope
I’m doing my best to share the load
If you want to leave, you better know
That I might love you enough to let you go
Let you go…This time

Wind and Rain, Stones and Fire
Can’t keep me satisfied
I need your touch, need your desire
I need your sweet little hand in mine
In mine….in mine

If you want to leave, there’s something you better know
That I might love you enough to let you go
Let you go…This time

*******************

Why Why Baby, Goodbye?

For the music, click here.)

I got a few dollars but I’m short on sense
Cuz I’ve been dying to see you again
It’s good I got my friends
To talk me out of trying

Cuz you didn’t treat me so well
But I tell myself what the hell
There ain’t nobody that’s ever loved me
The way that you did

And it’s for the better I know
That you finally had to go
But could you please return my heart and soul
And some of the minor appliances

Where did I go wrong
How can I move on
When I’m not really sure why
You said goodbye, goodbye
Why why baby, goodbye?

I’d love to see you again
I guess that shows to what extent
I ain’t even started to find my way again
without you

Newspapers all out on the lawn
Sinks full of dishes since your gone
And I just can’t seem
To give a damn

And it’s for the better I know
That you finally had to go
But could you please return my heart and soul
And some of the minor appliances

Where did I go wrong
How can I move on
When I’m not really sure why
You said goodbye

Where did I go wrong
How can I move on
Could you just tell me one more time
Why you’re saying goodbye, goodbye
Why why baby, goodbye?

***************

For Eric’s webpage, see here.
For all the lyrics, here.

Songs can be heard on youtube by searching for Eric Bray and song title.

Creativity Workshop with Paige Baldwin Ando

Zoom meeting on July 18, 2021
Report by Kirsty Kawano

Paige Baldwin Ando

WiK’s July meeting was a departure from our usual presentations by publishers and published authors, with a workshop led by creativity coach Paige Baldwin Ando. She is based in Tokyo but coaches people from all around the world. To give us a taste of how her coaching works, Paige devoted the latter half of the session to taking questions from participants. Her advice was simple—in the way that truths often are—but also powerful. Over Zoom, we watched the expressions on the faces of our fellow inquirers clear as a path through their current creative blockages seemed to open for them.

Paige started the workshop with an exercise. She had us think about containers: any structure that helps you organize and support your work. These “things that you can pour your work into” include aspects such as time (for example, writing for one hour, or creating time for oneself); physical space (a room, a desk, a portable table that you can erect when you work); numbers (a word count, page count, episodes in a series); a subject, theme or project; rhythms and rituals within the structure of your day that may determine when you write; relationships like classes or our own writers’ group. These need to be factors that support you, not constrict you. And you need to be in control of how they are used.

Paige then had each of us write down the various containers that we have used in the past, and then to separate them according to those that have worked for us, and those that haven’t. She then asked us to consider how we can use the containers that work for us in a current or upcoming project.

Paige then opened the floor to questions. In her one-on-one coaching, Paige works with each individual to hone in on the difficulties they are experiencing and come up with methods that will work for them. But as the Q&A began, it was clear that many of us hit the same brick walls. The first question was about one of those—procrastination, and its common companion, perfectionism.

Paige enlightened us to the presence in our brains of the amygdala, which the dictionary tells me “plays an important role in motivation and emotional behavior.” Paige explained it as a part of the brain that is looking out for us and wants to protect us. It has been programmed, in large part, by the well-meaning cautions of our parents when we were kids and includes classic phrases such as “don’t risk making a fool of yourself in front of others,” “no-one likes a show-off,” “don’t set your goals too high.”

The amygdala is a fear mechanism and it doesn’t want you to try anything new, in case you fail. So you need to fly below its radar by taking ridiculously tiny steps toward your goal. Things like deciding to just open your PC, or just write one sentence. Although it doesn’t seem like it, such small steps are very powerful, Paige says. Be kind to your amygdala and coach it to acknowledge that the small steps that you have taken haven’t caused any harm.

If you would like to learn more about the amygdala, and how to trick it, Paige recommends a book called, One Small Step Can Change Your Life by Robert Maurer. A number of participants immediately ordered it.

Another question dealt with being overwhelmed, particularly regarding the amount of content for a non-fiction book. Crucially, Paige reminded us that creativity is about having fun. Since the logical approach of creating an outline and following it wasn’t helping the writer format her work, Paige advised handling the problem intuitively instead, by starting with whatever part of the information was fun for her and teasing out that thread first, and to then keep pulling on various threads that bring the writer joy. Paige cautioned that the writer may have to do that a dozen times or more, but that in doing so, the shape of the work would come to her. Meanwhile, she will have made progress on the content of each section.

The next question was how to face non-fun aspects, particularly those encountered when writing memoir. Paige advised confronting those topics as the person you are now—a different person to the one who went through those difficult experiences and came out the other side. For help with that, Paige recommended a book called Presence, by Amy Cuddy.

A final question asked Paige to reveal some of the techniques her clients have used to spur ideas. She told us about a visual artist who removed all their clothes in order to gain a fresh and closer view of their work, and one who turned their painting upside down to do that. She also mentioned someone who, in order to bridge the generational gap between her and her niece, proposed that they write letters to each other as if they were ladies living in the 18th century.

Alongside the one-on-one coaching, Paige offers a range of creative activities via her website (Home | Whole Self Creative). She runs a free, online co-creation session each week, online visual journaling classes, and from September, a group coaching session. You might also like to check out her Instagram page—you know, just a little thing you can do that won’t worry your amygdala.

*********************

A video of the day’s workshop is due to be posted to YouTube soon.

Books set in Kyoto

Structures of Kyoto: Writers in Kyoto Anthology 4

On sale now from Amazon.comAmazon.co.jp and other Amazon marketplaces in print and Kindle formats.


Edited by Rebecca Otowa and Karen Lee Tawarayama 
Foreword by Judith Clancy

Structures of Kyoto explores the physical, spiritual, and artistic elements of Japan’s ancient capital and beckons one to “step through the gate” to interact with them.

Bookended by the insights of authors Judith Clancy (Exploring Kyoto) and Alex Kerr (Finding the Heart Sutra), readers will find themselves amidst temple gardens and gates, within a tea ceremony and a calligraphy class, observing a children’s boat regatta, and amongst writers channeling their muse in literary cafes. The spirits of the city — ancestors, ghosts, supernatural creatures, and benevolent deities — also have their place.

From Ryoanji Temple in the west to Mount Daimonji in the east, and from Sanzenin Temple in the north to Fushimi Inari Shrine in the south, established authors, upcoming writers, and featured artists will transport you to the cultural heart of Japan with their non-fiction, fiction, prose, poetry, and images, which together paint a stunning and informative portrait of the world’s favorite city.

Contents

  • Structures of Kyoto    From the Editors
  • Foreword    Judith Clancy
  • Map of Kyoto

Introductory

  • What Does This Say, Sensei?    Rona Conti
  • Interlude: Kyoto    Brenda Yates 
    (3rd Prize, WiK Writing Competition 2020)

Part I

  • Rocks, Gravel, and a Bit of Moss    Mark Hovane
  • Sparrow Steps    Amanda Huggins
    (2nd Prize, WiK Writing Competition 2020)
  • Structures of Tea    Rebecca Otowa
  • The River    Felicity Tillack
  • The Streets of Miyako    Mike Freiling
  • Three Literary Cafes    John Dougill
  • Sunrise Over the Kamogawa    Ina Sanjana
    (2nd Prize, WiK Writing Competition 2019)
  • The Life Dispensary    Karen Lee Tawarayama
  • Converging Waters (Kamogawa Delta Blues)    Robert Weis

Kyukei 休憩

  • The Magic of the Training Structures of Zen and Kyoto    Reggie Pawle

Part II

  • December    Lauren E. Walker
    (1st Prize, WiK Writing Competition 2020)
  • Ohara, After Scarlet Leaves    Edward J. Taylor
  • Beyond Zen — Kyoto’s Gorinto Connections    Jann Williams
  • Okuribi    Lisa Wilcut
    (1st Prize, WiK Writing Competition 2019)
  • One Dog Day in Summer    Simon Rowe
  • The Gion Festival — A Hero’s Journey    Catherine Pawasarat
  • The Gate    John Einarsen
  • A Kyoto Ceramic Dynasty: Kiyomizu Rokubey Eight Generations    Robert Yellin
  • Sanjusangen-do, Reinterpreted    Ken Rodgers
  • Yurei Ame / Ghost Candy    Marianne Kimura
    (3rd Prize, WiK Writing Competition 2019)

Afterword

  • A New Philosophy of Tourism    Alex Kerr
  • Illustrators and Image Makers: Acknowledgements
  • Image Captions

Reviews

Structures of Kyoto, Interrogated — by Patrick McCoy , for Kyoto Journal’s 100 Views of Kyoto

Structures of Kyoto: Rediscover the Old Capital Through Vibrant Stories, Essays, and Poems — by Lisandra Moor, for Tokyo Weekender

Structures of Kyoto (WiK Anthology 4) Review by Irish Author Jean Pasley

Related Videos/Links

To hear the contributing authors speaking about their pieces in the anthology, please see the videos here and here.

For an interview of co-editors Rebecca Otowa and Karen Lee Tawarayama, please click here.

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