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Featured writing

A Single Thread (James Woodham)

A SINGLE THREAD
James Woodham

a single 

thread
the spider’s 
leaving

light 
travelling 
along it

breeze 
sliding it 
back

a whiteness of wings –
from the shore a heron lifts
away on water

***********

egret takes to air
wingtips grazing the lake
gliding on shadow

***********

a piece of the dusk 
breaks off and takes to the air
becoming heron

leaves hardly moving
from the depths of the blue sky
faint trace of birdcall

************

tobi circles once
in the sky above my head
leaving empty blue

************

dull heat of noon –
in the bushes a bird calls
without conviction

************

vanishing into
the dark crevice – lizard’s tail
a startling blue

************

air awash with sound 
insistence of cicadas
the tree’s symphony

************

crunching of acorns 
underfoot on the mountain’s
shadow-dappled path

************

sun low on the hills
plumes of the susuki grass
softly luminous

************

nothing but the cold
no wind, no sky visible
a few flakes of snow

************

always coming back 
to the platform by the lake
and the sky mountains

*************

finding myself here 
home again and with a sigh
the train pulls away

***************

For previous contributions by James Woodham, please see the striking poems and stunning photography here.  Or here. Or here. Or here.

Featured writing

Here comes Kenji (Ramsden)

Here Comes Kenji

by Kevin Ramsden

It was late on a weekday afternoon, and James was nearly two-thirds into his second beer of the day. Raising his head from the reading of his newspaper, he gazed absently around the barely populated bar he was sat in, properly taking in his surroundings for the first time. With its outdated furnishings, dark stained wallcoverings and low ceiling, it certainly was a funky little spot. Gloomy, slightly malodorous, somewhat on the small side, and buried at basement level in a non-descript building in downtown Osaka, he was thinking it probably didn’t grab much in the way of passing trade. Truth be told, he wasn’t really sure why he had decided to venture down the litter strewn steps and into the semi-darkness of the joint in the first place. Sure the flickering neon “bar open” light might have had something to do with it, but something else had drawn him in, and that something seemed to be keeping him there, and for more than one pint at least.  He had actually been looking for another boozer in the same vicinity that reputedly attracted a good percentage of the city’s ex-pat community, where he was hoping that he might be able to hook up with a few people in the know who could help a new kid on the block out.  With only a couple of weeks under his belt, he really needed to start making connections that would lead to something resembling employment. Although not yet desperate, he knew if he didn’t find work soon, it would be time to jack it in and head home. And for James that was simply not an option he wanted to consider. Too many problems back there. But as that pub was probably not yet open, this subterranean pleasure palace would have to provide refuge for another hour or two. And what the hell, they had beer – he would manage.

Continuing his surveillance and purposefully avoiding eye contact with any of the other early evening patrons, his attention now settled on the large flat screen TV up on the wall to the right of the bar area, currently showing a baseball game between the Hanshin Tigers and Yomiuri Giants.  James had no interest in baseball.  Didn’t understand the game, its rules, or why it was so popular.  Judging by the way the other half dozen or so local punters littering this joint were behaving, nor did they.  Nearly all were either staring into space, staring at their drinks, or staring, eyes closed, into their own souls. 

All save one.

Perched on a bar stool at the far end of the counter, and eyeing him intently through a soft drifting of cigarette smoke and dust motes, was a princess.  A real vision.  A little taken aback, James immediately straightened in his chair and lifting his beer glass slowly to his lips, returned her look with a steady one of his own. How had he missed her? Had she been there the whole time?

This was very interesting.

Narrowing his eyes, the better to bring her face into focus, he struggled for signs of recognition.  She was certainly beautiful, undoubtedly self-assured, and making her interest in him blatantly obvious.  But he was sure he didn’t know her.  If they had met before, he most definitely would have remembered it.

Next move?

It was hers.  Sliding off the bar stool with a barely a sound, and plucking her wine glass up off the counter by its stem, she glided across the five meters or so distance between them like a swan on ice.  James now followed her progress with a little uncertainty.  What was happening here?  Then she was there.  Standing directly in front of him, looking down with an amused smile playing on her perfectly shaped, gloss red lips. Parting them slightly, she murmured,

“Americajin?” 

“No, English”, he replied cautiously, “You?”

“Very Japanese”, she responded with a laugh, inclining her head to one side and casually sweeping strands of her immaculately bobbed hair behind one ear.  James was as close to speechless he had ever been, but managed to gather himself enough to extend an invitation,

“Would you like to join me?”

With a small nod of acceptance, and another effortlessly seductive smile, she lowered herself into the chair opposite his, taking a long sip from her glass before slowly placing it on the table.  He took a quick look around the bar to see if anyone else was bearing witness to this, but nothing had really changed. No one seemed to be showing any interest in how this little scene was playing out, except for perhaps the bartender, who, despite fiddling with a beer tap, was actually casting furtive glances in their direction. He was a pretty cool young Japanese guy with decent English, and as they were close to the same age, they’d chatted a bit about this and that while James was being served earlier. James raised his eyebrows a couple of time to register the universal code for surprise, but the bartender’s expression came back a little flat, in fact even a little hostile.  Strange. 

Still, James had something else to occupy his mind right now, and she was in a very friendly mood.  The conversation went back and forth easily, and very soon he began to relax into it.  She told him her name, Reina, and of her love for speaking English and travel.  He explained why he had come to Japan, and a little of his previous life in the UK.  She talked of her hometown, Tottori, and how she had moved to Osaka for work.  He brought up the difficulty he was having nailing down decent employment, but was confident something great would turn up in time.  Pretty soon, and much to his surprise, they found themselves exchanging phone numbers and LINE details and were even chatting over the idea of leaving and moving on to another more interesting hostelry. All in all, they appeared to be getting along just swimmingly … until. 

Noticing the hint of a tattoo peeking out from under the short sleeve of the blouse she was wearing, and intrigued by something he had not seen on any of the young Japanese women he had encountered thus far, he decided to casually comment on it,

“That’s an interesting bit of artwork on your arm, Reina, can I see the rest of it?”

Getting surprisingly flustered and even a little panicked, she tugged on the shirt sleeve in an attempt to hide it, and then standing up abruptly, and muttering something in Japanese, made a short apologetic gesture and excused herself, claiming an urgent need to visit the bathroom.  James sat back in his chair, clearly astonished by this sudden change in mood and events, and shaking his head, picked up their glasses and headed to the bar.  Maybe a fresh round of drinks would get things back on track. Obviously, he had struck a nerve, but couldn’t for the life of him figure out what the big issue was.

Arriving at the counter, he gave a little wave to catch the eye of the young bartender, who was nearly finished serving another customer, and got a curt ‘in a minute’ nod in return. While waiting for his turn, he swiveled from side to side to check if Reina was returning from the toilet, and to clock the rest of the clientele.  This time, far from ignoring his presence, several sets of eyes were firmly fixed on him, and one or two faces even bore expressions of outright animosity.  What the …?  James did not like the feel of this one bit.  At that moment, the bartender rocked up, and before James could get a word out, leaned toward him and spoke low and hard,

“I think you need to leave, man”

Shocked and now more than a little uneasy, James countered,

“What’re you talking about, mate. I haven’t done anything”

The bartender shook his head,

“That girl you’re with.  She’s not yours, she’s not for you”

James let out a nervous laugh,

“I’m not with her, mate.  We’ve only just met.  What’s the big problem?”

The bartender leaned even closer and hissed,

“Listen!  I’m trying to do you a favor. Everyone in here knows her. She’s not what you think.” 

And now in a raised voice,

“Seriously, you just need to go!!”

At that moment, two things happened almost at once. The door to the bar flew open, ricocheting off the faux brick wall with a resounding bang and a shattering of glass. And Reina, who had by now reappeared, let out a shriek of near terror and stood shaking with both hands clamped to her mouth.  Seconds later, a very large, very hard looking Japanese guy with a less than genial look about him sauntered through the opening. Head swiveling from side to side, he finally settled his gaze on James. Fixing him with a stare exuding pure menace.

The bartender stepped back and through gritted teeth exclaimed,

“Majikayo, Kenji daze” – “Oh shit, here comes Kenji”.

James cautiously opened one sleep-encrusted eye, and winced as the harsh morning sunlight blasted the side of his face that wasn’t glued to the pillow. Too far from the window and, therefore, too far from being able to close the curtains, he slowly dragged the thin bed sheet covering him up and over his head to at least partially block the fearsome rays attacking his body. Reluctant to do anything that might increase the industrial scale pounding currently ongoing inside his skull, he lay motionless and attempted to organize his thoughts. Some things became immediately clear: he was not in the room he had been sharing with the guitar playing Italian traveler at the hostel in Shinsaibashi; he was still fully-dressed and in the same clothes as, he presumed, yesterday; and apart from the splitting headache and glass paper raw throat, his upper-right arm hurt like a bastard. Jesus Christ!  What the hell had he done? And where the f**k was he?

Taking several deep and painful breaths, he took the plunge and cast the flimsy sheet off. Swinging his legs out and to one side, he managed to raise himself into a sitting position, and from there, take stock of his situation. Looking around, he could immediately see he was in some sort of low-end hotel room. The place stunk of stale cigarettes, with tired looking furnishings and fittings, and a carpet worn extra thin by heaven knew what kinds of nefarious activity over the years. With enormous effort, he forced himself to stand, and on tremulous legs, shuffled warily the few feet to the combined unit toilet and shower cubicle. Once inside, he lowered himself onto the toilet seat, and half turned to check his reflection in the mirror on the wall. “Oh, my god” he whimpered to himself, “What did you do, James?”  For the face that stared back at him was not at all a pretty sight. Not the face of an average looking, 24-year-old at all. He looked like, as his mum would say, death warmed up. Softly shaking his head, his eyes started to brim with tears, which then slithered ungraciously down his cheeks. After a few moments of deserved self-pity, he moved to brush away the moisture from his cheeks and set to checking what else was amiss. Carefully running his hands over his upper body, he was relieved to find no obvious injuries, and just the usual aches and soreness that followed an extremely mad night out. But there was still that persistent burning sensation in his right arm.

Moving at a centenarian’s pace, he took an inordinate amount of time to remove first his jacket, and then his shirt, letting both fall to the floor, before turning his attention to his upper arm, and the oversized plaster that now sat there, harboring a secret under its plastic surface. Now, he couldn’t remember that being there yesterday. Taking measurable care, he started to peel back the lower edge of the thing, cursing under his breath at both the pain of the process, and the reality of what was being slowly revealed. When the operation was complete and the bloody gauze discarded into the washbasin, James stared open-mouthed at what lay beneath. A tattoo. A freakin’ tattoo! That had DEFINITELY not been there yesterday! Chinese characters he couldn’t read and a number:

剣児 12

Now this was starting to get more than just a little bit scary.

Faced with this new, very much unwanted, development, he was struggling to get a grip.  “Think, think, think, James” he urged himself, while frantically, searching through his pockets; jeans, shirt and jacket for possessions, clues, anything. Nothing. Right. Maybe he had been mugged?  Shuffling with a little more urgency this time, he moved back into the sleeping area to conduct a further search. Shit!  No rucksack. OK.  More than maybe mugged. Mugged by a tattoo artist? This was crazy. Seconds away from simply exploding in panic and fleeing somewhere, anywhere at all, he happened to glance down. And there was his phone.  On the small dressing table next to the bed. Just the phone and nothing else. The digital clock next to it read 11.49. Finally, something familiar. A lifeline out of this insanity. Then the phone buzzed. James pounced on it, half picking, half juggling it up. Scanning the screen quickly, he tapped on an incoming LINE message that read:

Come to the bar NOW. Right NOW. ONLY YOU!! (serious face)

James stood on the top step looking down at the door to the bar. He was finding it hard to believe he had first entered this place just short of 24 hours earlier. The fact that he had been summoned back here now, and with absolutely no memory of leaving, or indeed what had transpired since he had first entered, was alarming to say the least. But he knew he had to walk down those stairs and confront whatever was waiting for him within. He simply had no choice in the matter.

Pushing open the old wooden entrance door, with its peeling paint work and square of cardboard replacement for a glass panel, he stepped nervously across the threshold. As soon as the first waft of a familiar musty nicotine and beer infused odor hit his nostrils, a flood of memories rushed screaming into his brain. That smell had been the prelude to this nightmare. After scouring the place for signs of life for a few moments, he finally settled on the three figures clustered around the end of the counter furthest from the door. Unless they were hiding, there didn’t appear to be anyone else around. Walking slowly towards them, he shot wary glances from left to right, still not sure of what he was getting himself into. As he neared the trio at the bar, and they came more clearly into focus, recognition started to bite like a mangy dog. The beautiful girl. The cocky bartender. And an old guy he had no recollection of at all. Both the girl and the older man averted their eyes when he drew close enough to speak. Neither, seemingly, having the courage to engage with him. It was the bartender who spoke first,

“You came then” he sneered, stating the obvious.

“Didn’t really have much choice, did I?” James responded, looking the young guy up and down.

“That’s true” the bartender said, “No choice at all.”

“So, would somebody like to tell me what the f**k is going on” James stated flatly, and then more angrily “Because somebody has really taken the piss here, and I want to know who it was, and why. Understand?”

“Fair enough” the girl spoke for the first time, “Do you want a drink?”

“Do I want a drink?” James spluttered, moving forward to confront her directly. Then shouting in her face “No, I don’t want a bloody drink, darlin’. I want all my stuff and a bleedin’ explanation. That’s what I want.” Slamming a fist down heavily on the top of the bar, rattling some empty glasses and an ashtray. The girl simply shrugged in response and nodded to her left, where James’s rucksack and holdall containing all his other belongings sat on the manky carpet.

“There’s your stuff” she said “Number 5 will fill you in on the rest.”

And with that she brushed past him and wandered off to a table on the other side of the room.

Turning his attention back to the bartender, he pointed an accusing finger at the young guy’s chest,

“Are you number 5 then, mate?” he said. “Are you the dickhead that’s caused me all this grief?”

“My name’s Yuya” the young Japanese hollered over James’s shoulder at the girl, “Not number f*****g 5.”

“Whatever” the girl mumbled as she sat casually swiping a thumb across the screen of her phone.

Exasperated, James’s voice took on a more pleading tone,

“Look, I really don’t care who is number whatever, OK. But can somebody please explain all this to me. I’m going out of my mind, here.” Then rolling up his sleeve to reveal the tattoo on his right arm, “And what does this mean? Who did this to me?”

Yuya smirked in reply, and pulling up the right short sleeve of his own tee shirt, presented his arm to James. There, almost identical in size, was the exact same tattoo so recently applied to James, but bearing a different number to the right of it:

剣児 5

“Number 5” whispered James. “Then that makes me number 12, right?”

Yuya nodded. “Sorry, man, but that’s pretty much it.” Then pointing past him to Reina, he said, “and meet number 8” and then jerking a thumb in the direction of the yet-to-speak old man to his left, “and this is number 2.”

“What does the kanji mean?” exclaimed James, “What’s that about?”

“That kanji is the name of the guy who owns this place, dude.” Yuya said softly with a slow shake of his head, “Those kanji read Kenji. But he doesn’t just own this bar – he owns you too, now. He owns us all, man.”

“What the f**k do you mean, he OWNS me!” James exploded. “How can he OWN me!”

So Yuya explained.

Kenji was a psychopath. Pure and simple. A very rich, very well-connected psychopath. And many a poor wretch who made the mistake of entering his bar, also unknowingly entered his sick, depraved world. He, Yuya, for example, had simply answered an ad for bartenders, where the hourly rate was way above the norm. As a struggling student, he desperately needed the money for tuition, and to help feed his new and building drug habit. Somehow, Kenji had found out all about his situation, and intervened. Not to help him, but to reinforce his addiction. To make him totally and utterly dependent to the point he had nowhere or no one else to turn to. He built a portfolio of Yuya’s life in minute detail, tracking down his family members and friends, digging into every aspect of his young life, probing for every weakness. And Yuya had many. He quickly amassed a mountain of information, including video, photos and signed confessions taken under extreme circumstances. And to complete the whole, mad and irrational project, the demented, sick bastard had branded him, like a farm animal, a living, breathing possession. He had broken him, and then he had owned him. But he wasn’t alone, of course.

Reina, number 8, was a runaway. Desperate to escape physical and sexual abuse at the hands of her step-father, she had fled to Osaka from Tottori. Where she had swum directly into Kenji’s net. She didn’t stand a chance. Kenji had spent a great deal of time and money grooming the young, impressionable and broken girl, until she felt she could no longer survive without him. As for the old guy, number two, he owned the rundown business hotel where James had woken up that morning. A solitary man with few friends and no family, he had been easy prey for Kenji and his associates, and after he had opened up to his new friend about his awful predilections following a heavy drinking session in the bar, and received an empathetic ear, his hard drive full of child pornography he thought he had made a well-kept secret, was no longer such. Now his hotel was home to all of Kenji’s possessions. Somewhere he could coral them. Keep a close eye on them. Under complete surveillance. No one paid rent, and all their needs were catered for. But no one could leave. Not unless Kenji decided otherwise. If they dared to attempt it, the least of their worries would be their secrets being exposed to the world. If Kenji was in the wrong mood – their disappearance may be made permanent.

James was speechless. He realized now he was now number 12 in the collection, and it was abundantly clear he was in a very tight spot. But wait a minute. What could Kenji possibly have on him? He’d only been in town for two weeks. He didn’t really know anyone and had done nothing remotely illegal. He would just simply blow this joint and take off. Just a shit tattoo as a bad reminder. He threw a pitying look Yuya’s way and wagging a no-no finger, stooped down to pick up his belongings. The bartender let out an audible sigh,

“Not that easy, dude” he said.

Standing with a bag in each hand, James laughed nervously,

“What are you talkin’ about, mate” he said, “I’m out of here. This Kenji’s got absolutely nothing on me. You losers may have to put up with this crazy shit, but not me. And I’ll tell you something else. Next stop is the cop shop to fill them in on this freak show going on ‘ere.”

In reply, Yuya reached behind him for the i-pad that was resting on the counter. Swiping the screen to bring up a file, he swung it round so that James could see,

“You don’t remember anything about last night, do you, dude. Kenji coming crashing in here. Number 3 and number 7 holding you down. Kenji pouring that shit into you? No, you don’t remember a thing.”

And then pushing the pad forward under James’s nose,

“This jog your memory?”

James look down at the screen and the terrible images that had appeared on it, and immediately started to gag. WTF? How on earth had they managed to get him to do that. Who were these people with him? It was unbelievable. Shaking his head in denial, he felt his body start to heave and began sobbing uncontrollably. Yuya took him by the shoulders, guided him to a chair and sat him down. Reina moved over to sit next to him, placing a hand on his arm and slowly bringing her head to rest on his shoulder. James succumbed to the raw emotions sweeping his body and slumped down in abject defeat.

“Oh yeah” added Yuya, “he’s got your passport, too, man. You ain’t going nowhere”

James left his room at the hotel and trudged down the stairs to the tiny lobby area. Number 2 was sat behind the reception desk as usual, staring out the grimy window of the front entrance to the narrow street beyond. James didn’t even bother to acknowledge the faint wave the old pervert aimed in his direction, and yanking open the door stepped outside. As he made his way through the now familiar labyrinth of alleyways that crisscrossed the district, with its hole-in-the-wall ramen stands, abandoned adult video shops and brightly-lit convenience stores, his mind was on the evening ahead. Another night behind the bar at Kenji’s. Another night of serving the lowest of the low, both the friends and property of a madman. Reaching the top of the steps to the bar at street level in just under 10 minutes, he paused before descending. Strange noises were emanating from the place. None of which he had heard before. The sounds of laughter, singing and the unmistakable strumming of a slightly out-of-tune guitar.  Hopping down the steps two at a time, he thrust open the door to the bar and into a most unusual scene. Sat at the very same table he himself had occupied that fateful night not so long ago, were several of the “numbers”, including Reina 8, and a long-haired, bearded young troubadour who was joyfully murdering an Ed Sheeran song, much to the delight of his little throng of admirers. James recognized him right away. Matteo. The fun-loving Italian traveler, his roommate from the hostel when he’d first arrived.

Noticing his audience’s attention had been diverted, Matteo immediately stopped playing and turned to see what or who had stolen his thunder. On seeing James, he quickly lay the guitar to rest on the chair next to him and beaming, jumped to his feet to greet his friend,

“James” he playfully admonished in his heavily accented English, “Where you been, brother. I am very worried about you. You just disappear.”

James looked forlorn.

“How did you find me, Matteo?” he asked quietly. “How did you find this place?”

“What? Don’t be silly, Jamey” Matteo laughed, “You send me message, you ask me to come. Look”

And then, after a little digging in the front pockets of his jeans, Matteo retrieved a scrap of paper with directions to the bar on it and a short fateful script:

Hey Matteo, come and join the club! James

“No, no, no” James started jabbering at him, “No, I didn’t send this, mate. You gotta go. You gotta go now. You have no idea what you’ve walked into”

“What you talking about, Jamey” Matteo spluttered, “I just get here. What is wrong with you?”

“JUST GET OUT!” screamed James in the face of the by now hopelessly bewildered Italian, pushing him hard in the chest.

Then, just as a visibly upset Matteo was about to grab his stuff and take off, the sound of the main door to the bar being forcefully opened brought the room to an eerie silence.

“Too late, man” came the voice of number 5 from behind the bar,

“Here comes Kenji”

**************

For more fiction by Kevin, please see this story.

Featured writing

Western writers overview

Western Writers in/on Kyoto
[A highly subjective and selective account…]
By Ken Rodgers

Portuguese trade envoys outside Nijo-jo, bearing gifts around 1624, on a rakuchuu-rakugai-zu folding screen. Their travel blogs do not seem to have survived.

The first Europeans to set foot in Kyoto, in 1551, were the missionaries Francis Xavier and Juan Fernandez, seeking selfies with the Emperor Go-Nara, during the later throes of the Sengoku period of warring states. Not a good time in the old capital. Xavier described the devastated city as “a lair of wolves and foxes,” and after only 11 days, headed back to civilization: Hirado in Kyushu.

Kyoto was rebuilt, of course, and regained its attractiveness. In the late 1500s, another Jesuit, Luis Frois wrote about a Kyoto garden, describing its “delightful and strange trees … all of which were cultivated artificially, so that some are shaped like bells, others like towers, others like domes.”

By 1619, the political climate had changed again. William Adams’ associate Richard Cocks, of the British East India Company, recorded observing an execution of 55 Christians in Miyako (Kyoto). Soon, Kyoto was essentially a forbidden city.

A strangely truncated Sanjusangendo and its Toshiya archery competiton, as depicted in Kaempfer’s History of Japan

While the Tokugawa sakoku policy from the 1630s kept Kyoto almost entirely tourist-free for over 200 years, somehow the German naturalist & physician Englebert Kaempfer managed to snag an Airbnb close by Sanjo-keihan at the end of the 1600s. His writings on his two-year stay in Japan (published posthumously in 1727) became the authoritative text on all things Nihon for over 100 years, under the marvelously memorable title of “The History of Japan, giving an Account of the ancient and present State and Government of that Empire; of Its Temples, Palaces, Castles and other Buildings; of Its Metals, Minerals, Trees, Plants, Animals, Birds and Fishes; of The Chronology and Succession of the Emperors, Ecclesiastical and Secular; of The Original Descent, Religions, Customs, and Manufactures of the Natives, and of their Trade and Commerce with the Dutch and Chinese. Together with a Description of the Kingdom of Siam.”

Kobe and Osaka were not opened to foreigners until 1863, while Kyoto remained off limits for decades more. The indefatigable Victorian-era British travel-writer Isabella Bird visited Kyoto (with special authorization) in the late 1870s, and described the city’s delights as follows, in Vol. II of Unbeaten Tracks in Japan:

“With its schools, hospitals, lunatic asylum, prisons, dispensaries, alms-houses, fountains, public parks and gardens, exquisitely beautiful cemeteries, and streets of almost painful cleanliness, Kiyoto is the best-arranged and best-managed city in Japan.”

Lafcadio Hearn, here in 1895 for the Great Exposition (and the very first Jidai Matsuri), reported on it for the Atlantic Monthly, (a fascinating, glowing account now downloadable as A Trip to Kyoto):    

“I returned by another way, through a quarter which I had never seen before, – all temples. A district of great spaces, – vast and beautiful and hushed as by enchantment. No dwellings or shops. Pale yellow walls only, sloping back from the roadway on both sides, like fortress walls, but coped with a coping or rooflet of blue tiles; and above these yellow sloping walls (pierced with elfish gates at long, long intervals), great soft hilly masses of foliage – cedar and pine and bamboo – with superbly curved roofs sweeping up through them. Each vista of those silent streets of temples, bathed in the gold of the autumn afternoon, gave me just such a thrill of pleasure as one feels on finding in some poem the perfect utterance of a thought one has tried for years in vain to express.”

Good point. Kyoto somehow speaks to everyone in their own language. As a more recent example, Gary Snyder, in the 1950s, found aspects of his beloved Pacific North-West here, in this poem from Riprap (1959):

Higashi Hongwanji
       Shinshu temple

 In a quiet dusty corner
        on the north porch 
 Some farmers eating lunch on the steps, 
 Up high behind a beam: a small
        carved wood panel 
 Of leaves, twisting tree trunk, 
 Ivy, and a sleek fine-haired Doe.
        a six-point Buck in front 
 Head crooked back, watching her. 
 The great tile roof sweeps up 
 & floats a grey shale 
 Mountain over the town.

Here’s the same landmark, through the eyes of Edith Shiffert, in Kyoto Dwelling (1989). She came to Kyoto in 1963, and remained here until her death at the age of 101, in 2017. [See Charles Roche’s tribute to her at The Flame, here.]

Higashihonganji Pilgrims 

In winter sunshine hundreds of pilgrims  
come to bow at an altar then  
return to their countryside.   

Elderly, bent, short, 
in dark kimono and white tabi, 
they spread over the graveled yard. 
The all-pervading and ever-enduring 
compassion of Amida 
gives to them hope. 

Having left their work, 
going to go back for more work, 
gnarled hands clutch newly purchased rosaries, 
reach out to light candles and offer incense. 
The dream has at last come true, 
in the ancient capital 
paying homage at the supreme temple.   

The high and outspread eaves of the main building 
reach down toward them like mercy. 
Crowds of pigeons circle over them.  
Rainbow curtains at the gate, 
purple curtains on porches, 
blowing so they touch some of the faces.

Edith’s meditative verse is aptly complemented by John Einarsen’s photography in The Forest Within the Gate (2014). Harold Stewart’s By the Old Walls of Kyoto (1981) should also be remembered, as a measured response to all that Kyoto represents, while Gouverneur Mousher’s Kyoto, a Contemplative Guide (1964) probably remains one of the best introductory texts (from back in the day when Kyoto streetcar fares were 13 yen). John Dougill’s Kyoto: A Cultural History (2006) is another, more recent, classic distillation of this multi-layered city. Judith Clancy’s Exploring Kyoto: On Foot in the Ancient Capital (1997) is another must-read.

Many other writers have engaged with the mystique of Kyoto, all in their own distinctive ways. Pico Iyer’s local classic, The Lady and the Monk (1988) is half memoir, half romance. Recently posted on the WIK website, a 1957 poem by John Berryman grapples with the meaning of Ryoan-ji. Italo Calvino, the seer of Invisible Cities, also recounts a visit to Ryoan-ji, in Mr. Palomar (1983):

“…he sits on the steps, observes the rocks one by one, follows the undulations of the white sand, allows the undefinable harmony that links the elements of the picture gradually to pervade him.

Or, rather, he tries to imagine all these things as they would be felt by someone who could concentrate on looking at the Zen garden in solitude and silence. Because—we had forgotten to say—Mr. Palomar is crammed on the platform in the midst of hundreds of visitors, who jostle him on every side; camera lenses and movie cameras force their way past the elbows, knees, ears of the crowd, to frame the rocks and the sand from every angle, illuminated by natural light or by flashbulbs. Swarms of feet in wool socks step over him (shoes, as always in Japan, are left at the entrance); numerous offspring are thrust to the front row by pedagogical parents; clumps of uniformed students shove one another, eager only to conclude as quickly as possible this school outing to the famous monument; earnest visitors nodding their heads rhythmically check and make sure that everything written in the guidebook corresponds to reality and that everything seen in reality is also mentioned in the guide.”

In The Art of Setting Stones (2002), Marc Peter Keane shares insightful and very personal essays on the nature of Kyoto gardens. Other valuable additions include Juliet Winters Carpenter’s Seeing Kyoto (2012), Diane Durston’s Old Kyoto: A Guide to Traditional Shops, Restaurants and Inns (updated 2013), and Alex Kerr and Kathy Arlyn Sokol’s Another Kyoto (2016).

The eclectic Pan-Asian Kyoto Journal aims to remain a go-to source for diversely Kyoto-related articles. And in recent years the wide-ranging Writers in Kyoto annual anthologies have brought together a rich variety of prose and poetry, attesting to the ever-ongoing exploration of this fabled city’s confluence of rivers, traditions and minds…

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Links for pictures

Rakuchuu-rakugai-zu at Google Arts & Culture

Kaempfer illustration (PDF)

Writers in focus

Robert Yellin poems

Robert, in hat, recites the poems of his youth at the Kyoto Journal event held on Feb 8 at the Terminal to coincide with an exhibition of foreign artists.

1980s Poems

I deal in demons
Ya know what I mean?
I see them in the daylight hours
In banks, realtors outlets,
Kiosks and inflatable houseboats.

Pan and Prometheus know about
The coming rain

Another uneventful day is passing
The man across the street white
In his cotton shirt
Scratches his balls and tugs at the restlessness
And his balding head.

Incense like backwards rain
In my hibachi
My thoughts like water sinking in sand
Silent
This day will pass
This day will never return

A man is trimming his hedge
Another waits
For the postman.
And lights up a stick full of bought images and ideals
He does not think
He is slowly dying

This day brings promises of rain
This day is indeed mysterious
This day that we never think about
Nameless
Dateless
November misty night
Steam and mumbles from the hibachi
Fill my room

I stare out at this paper world
And earth ware of Bizen
Filled with the golden harvest
This liquid swirl
Education and feet of clay
Propaganda defeats this day

This day of sad cold rain
It’s been said that one day
We can all live in a green house
Maybe then we can get past the
Sprouting stage
It’s time
Time to reach out to the centuries
The centuries of myths, appliances
And ocean dumping grounds

Something pulled me
Into the antique dealer again today
The feel of time
A four-hundred year old cobweb
A sake cup
And written scroll

(this and following pictures courtesy Robert Yellin)

Four hundred years ago in Imbe
Bizen earth sacrificed itself
In the fire of Life
So that we could see our reflections
In its shape
All truths unfold
All concepts
All symbols
All ideologies
Become useless
In the presence
Of her subtle beauty
And Truth
In the hills of the potters valley
It awaits us
What we brethren seek
The blessings of nature
In all her abandoned glory

I sit down in Takekura
After a day of trains and myths
And the resigned public
Watching crooked politicians
Resign
Your ego
Let it be trampled
By an oncoming hikari
Float back down
The earth of Mashiko
Brings me back to this room
This room of all truths
Where all illusions tumble
And are shaped into clay
The only truth
Is that truth that has never been printed
Nor spoken

Wrung out through the mind maze of games
We create
To anchor our lives

The Emperor’ funeral three days before
The rain stopped
Today late February
In the year of snake
Oil-salesman
Who lead the nation
In questionable paths
Went down to Abe’s hut
The art of living amongst clay walls
Bamboo grove
Scattered pots
The bitterness of a spring flower
Served on a fire-marked dish
Shigaraki eclipses time
The days of the storyteller are gone
People only repeat media finds
And never take the time
To think about rain forests
Corporate control
This disposable life

Drinking cha and eating sembei on the veranda

Kyoto Connections

Verse and jazz by merchants of the cool, Gary Tegler and Robert Yellin

(Review by John Dougill) Last night our friends at Kyoto Journal put on a spoken word event to coincide with the wonderful exhibition they mounted of foreign artists in Kyoto (until Feb 18). The venue was an attractive and spacious machiya, or former merchant’s house, and the display of artistic talent was quite stunning, ranging from calligraphy through installations and contemporary artwork (several of the artists have been exhibited in prestigious institutions abroad).

Calligraphy by Alex Kerr
(photos by John Dougill)

It was in this remarkable setting that performers entertained a crowd of some 40 people for over two hours. It was very much a throw-back to the great Kyoto Connection events of the 1980s and 1990s, indeed MC and organiser Ken Rodgers made a conscious link with the now legendary showcasing of talent by evoking the spirit of the past and suggesting this was a continuation – no. 142 in an ongoing series. To emphasise the point, he produced a broad sheet with pictures and articles about the Connections of the past – music, poetry, taiko, dance, comedy, readings and magic, so much magic. How the memories came flooding back.

Amongst the gems in Ken’s broad sheet is an article on Foreign Writers in/on Kyoto, in which he gives a broad survey of the literature ending with, I’m pleased to say, Writers in Kyoto Anthology 3. It was also good to see WiK members prominent among the performers (8 out of 12). Opening the first set was Gary Tegler who read in his melodious voice a piece by Pico Iyer. He also closed the set with an inspired piece of improvisation to the trenchant lines of Robert Yellin’s verse, the latter of which was drawn from Robert’s poetic self of thirty years ago when pottery first fired his imagination.

Judith Clancy’s humorous account of ‘Life in the Slow Lane’, based around her experiences at the local swimming pool, elicited many a knowing chuckle from the audience and was reminscent of the table-tennis club in Pico Iyer’s Autumn Light. Kevin Ramsden repeated the performance of his award-winning rap, Kyotomojo, which he had previously recited at WiK’s bonenkai in December. Most of the audience had not heard it before and were delighted by the rhythm and the patter. In his introduction Kevin noted how it had been written over an evening’s drinking, inspired by the spirit/s of place. He also expressed how pleased he was to win the Local Prize of the Writers in Kyoto Competition, and how much he appreciated the pottery prize given to him by Robert Yellin as he was able to drink from it.

Kevin Ramsden demonstrates drinking from Robert Yellin’s pottery, while Ken Rodgers to his right demonstrates the dazzling shirt he wore for Kyoto Connection.

The second set included a thoughtful reading by Lisa Wilcut of her piece on ‘Ukifune’s Window’, an imaginative rendering of the tragic princess from the later chapters of Genji Monogatari. This was followed by John Dougill’s short piece on his first visit to Kyoto in 1975, and how a decade later he came upon the Kyoto Connection while isolated in Kanazawa. Rebecca Otowa then gave ad lib account of the lead story in her newly published collection, The Mad Kyoto Shoe Swapper. Her on the spot decision to retell the imaginative piece of fiction (rather than read it out) was more than justified by the way the audience reacted to the unfurling of the story, with people eagerly wondering how it might end.

Congratulations to Kyoto Journal for putting on such a special exhibition, and double congratulations to Ken Rodgers for another magical Kyoto Connection!

Winter scene by Brian Williams

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For an account of a dinner talk by Judith Clancy, see here. For a piece of fiction by Kevin Ramsden, click here. For Robert Yellin on saké, poetry and pottery see here or here or here. For Lisa Wilcut on a year of seasonal haiku, see here. For a self-introduction by Rebecca Otowa see here, and for one by John Dougill click here. For pieces by Ken Rodgers, see this travel article, or this D-Day memoir, or this celebration of Kyoto Journal’s 30th anniversary.

An attentive audience listens to Lisa Wilcut (following photos by Ken Rodgers)
Max Dodds accompanied by a child prodigy harmonica player
Rebecca Otowa ad libbing her way through ‘The Mad Kyoto Shoe Swapper’
Reaction to John Dougill’s short piece
Charles Roche tells a rapt audience of his love affair with woodwork
(photo John Dougill)
Robert Yellin and Gary Tegler, playing out the first set to a packed house

Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

Last Snow (Kimura)

The Last Snow in Kyoto
by Marianne Kimura

I wrote this hoping that the last big snow in Kyoto (January 26, 2019) will NOT after all be the last snow ever in Kyoto. (It is so far, one year and four days later, but who is counting?)

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Over several years, the snow had undoubtedly become less and less frequent.  And that winter, waking up to see whiteness all around was just a memory, but several times in December still, flakes appeared in the air and danced around tantalizingly, though there was little or no accumulation. Finally, though, one late January afternoon the snow started falling and this time the heavy flakes seemed serious and single-minded in their purpose.

By 8 or 9pm, the streetlights gave off enough of a glow to see that undeniably the world was covered with a magical layer in sparkling white. And still it was coming down.

By 10pm, her daughter, (a college student and not a little girl), was hurriedly putting on her shoes and coat to go on a walk. Her son, a junior high school student, was grinning with excitement and putting his shoes and coat on too.

She, their mother, could not possibly let them go alone at this unreasonable hour.

Outside snow was swirling, flakes busily falling, weather poetry for the snow-starved, the yuki-deprived.

They set off for Shisendo, the retreat with the entrance gates set back in a grove of bamboo trees. Shisendo is in Ichijoji, around 40 minutes away. But after 20 minutes, she noticed that the snowflakes were thinning out, though they were still clearly big fat flakes. She had wanted them to fall all through the night!

Mustn’t be greedy or dissatisfied. Must be grateful, she tells herself. Must post photos on facebook. Mustn’t think this is the last time to see snow. Must be hopeful.

They reach Shisendo and the delicate branches of the bamboo trees are sagging gracefully under centimeters of snow. However, the snow beneath them on the asphalt is slushy rather than powdery, the temperature bordering on too warm.

The entrance way to Shisendo, this year bereft of snow (photos by John Dougill)

The chochin, the paper lantern marking the entrance to Hachidai Shrine, is just 20 meters away up the hill. It hangs next to a grey stone torii gate. “Take my photo next to the lantern”, she begs her reluctant daughter, and runs through the slush to stand beside the softly radiant chochin, which has a dusting of pretty snow on it.

Forty minutes later, they are back in their house. The photo is immediately uploaded to Facebook and receives international acclaim from two friends just waking up in California.

In hindsight, that is bitter-sweet, of course, because that night was the last snowfall ever in Kyoto. With a tip of its blizzardy hat, the snow saluted her, and then it was gone, all melted by morning, though a few tsubaki branches in the garden had still a little white slush collected on their thick dark leaves.

Kyoto’s last snowman?

She guessed then that there would be no more snow, and indeed, this year, the weather is much too warm. It is as if she was reading the weather’s mind, as if it had been planning on quitting the snow business for a few years, intentionally running low on supplies and fulfilling its duties late if at all, and now it has finally closed up shop. 雪:閉店。

There are many photographers who wait for snow to fall in Kyoto, when they run to the famous temples and shrines to capture the scene before anyone has stepped on and corrupted the virgin snow. The steps of Kifune Jinja, for example, lined with striking red lanterns, are famously elegant and beautiful in newly fallen snow. What will these photographers do now?

And what will people who read poetry do when they come across all the tanka and haiku describing the centuries of snowy winters in Kyoto and in Japan? What will they think?

(The following haiku are by Basho and not necessarily about Kyoto, but the lack of snow this year affects the whole of Japan.)

雪と雪 今宵師走の 名月か
yuki to yuki/ koyoi shiwasu no/ meigetsu ya

The snow and snow.
This evening would have been
The great moon of December.

初雪や  いつ大仏の  柱立
hatsu-yuki ya/ itsu daibutsu no/ hashira-date

The first snow,
When is the pillar set up
For the Great Buddha?

(poems taken from http://www.masterpiece-of-japanese-culture.com/literatures-and-poems/haiku/matsuo-basho/haiku-poems-winter-examples-matsuo-basho)

Kyoto as it used to be – winter solstice 2008

Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

The Old Man (Richard Holmes)

The Old Man on the Hill
by Richard Holmes

I could see him through the pillars that looked down over the charred remains. Smoke rose up languidly from debris scattered everywhere, interrupted by the occasional flame that would shoot out unexpectedly. He stood there in his pajamas and hospital slippers, staring vacantly through gaunt, sunken eyes at what was left of his home. His face was blank, his mind visibly elsewhere. He was there, but not all there.

I live at the bottom of a cul-de-sac on Yoshida-yama Mountain, an exaggeration of a name for a bump on the landscape. This hillock affords me something precious, something you can’t easily get in a big city – silence. I swear the noisiest thing in the neighborhood is the chirping of the ‘uguisu’ bush warbler that comes back every year in early spring to nest in the same tree and find a mate. I just love this bird. He sounds so ecstatic when he finds a mate, this year’s true love. I’m very aware of sudden outbursts of noise in these parts. Anything out of the ordinary will grab my attention, especially, the sound of courtship on this graying hill.

Late in the afternoon I heard the sound of crackling and the agitated shouting of a few concerned locals. They should be concerned. Almost all of the houses in Kyōto are packed dangerously close together and are potential fire traps. My neighborhood is no exception.

The flames curled and licked up high along the walls of the Morinos’ house on the corner and gained a threatening hold on the eaves. Fortunately, they were quickly put out by gallant men with hard hats and hoses who arrived in what seemed like a jiffy. The fire services move very fast in emergencies like these in Kyōto. As soon as they arrived they turned off all the water in the neighborhood to divert it to their firefighting efforts. This, however, severed the lifeline to mine as I had been using the garden hose to help put out the flames. We could do nothing. We were thankful for their timely arrival but helpless as the flames spread unchecked towards the Nakamuras. We were next in line.

A crowd soon gathered from outlying areas of the neighborhood. “For crying out loud, put out those damn cigarettes!” I begged them as they feasted on the flames. Most grudgingly agreed to do so but they left behind ash and cigarette stubs everywhere on the ground in front of my house. They could see I was upset with their indifference to the tragedy that was unfolding before their very eyes. After all, their homes were not about to become unwilling casualties. When everything had died down at the end of evening, they dispersed. I could sense they’d had their fill. Enough excitement for one day, I suppose. They would shortly be back in the warmth of their homes in time for a hot supper and a cold beer to quench their thirst.

From what I’d heard, the old man and his elderly sister had lived there for quite a while before we moved to the hill sixteen years ago. (Or, was it seventeen? The longer you live here, the more it seems that time stands still.) Come to think of it, I couldn’t ever recall having seen the two of them outside, not even once. Their presence was an enigma for the locals, too. I vaguely recollect someone talking about them in tones so hushed that you could barely make out what was being said. Maybe they just didn’t know who the old folks were and were too embarrassed to admit it.

The tell-tale signs were out of sight to all except me. The window from my office offered a clear view of the second floor where the old man spent his days. I could see piles of plastic bags stacked up high. Then, there was the kerosene stove with that large kettle sputtering away on top almost all year round. And he would often lean back and stretch out his scrawny arms to empty ashtrays filled to the brim and the rancid contents of his urine bottle onto the tiled roof of the verandah outside. Piles of cigarette butts clogged the rain gutter and sometimes overflowed into the garden below during late afternoon squalls. Even from the comfort of my desk, I could make out faint clouds of mosquitoes hovering above this gutter, most likely checking out the nice moist and juicy breeding ground.

I remember him standing there one day in front of the wide-open window in just his long johns and undershirt. He brought both of his hands up to his mouth and let out a loud “Cock-a-doodle-doo!” I smiled. “This heat’s obviously gone to his head. Definitely cuckoo,” I thought. The comedy of his delivery from that elevated fleapit somehow softened the urgency of the inevitable ticking away slowly but menacingly in the wings. Sometimes you can’t see a red light even if it is flashing right in front of you.

I ought to have reported all that I’d accidentally seen to the police or the local ward office. In our neighborhood, we all pitch in at community events; but, at the same time, we cherish our privacy. We prefer to keep ourselves to ourselves as we lead our peaceful lives in the quiet of our own little yama. We don’t like being disturbed. We also don’t appreciate a nosy so-and-so who pries into other people’s business. But, what if I’d done the right thing and told someone? Things might have turned out quite differently. What if…? Such is the agonizing luxury of hindsight.

The sound of cracking timber filled the air as beams ignited, split and burst open. Tiles exploded everywhere and fell to the ground in random thumps. Most landed inside the burning house and within the safe confines of the garden; but one large piece flew over and landed with an abrupt thud on the balcony of my home, just a stone’s throw away. Smoke spiraled up in wisps from its bright red jagged edges. The old man’s reclusive life had rudely invaded the sanity of mine.

All that remained were black stumps of timber rising up into a cloudless sky. It was so peaceful after all the commotion of the day before. Suddenly the quiet was shattered by a thundering crash as firemen unceremoniously knocked down a wall that was about to keel over.

His spindly old legs had carried him back there along an invisible but well-traveled path. As he watched the plumes of white dust rising up from the ground and the last dying flames, a policeman and a nurse arrived on the scene. “Are you alright?” the nurse asked caringly. “How long have you been here?” the policeman asked hastily, as if he had better things to do. Routine questions uttered out of habit. The old man was oblivious to all the attention he was getting. “Be careful.” “Don’t slip.” They gingerly escorted him down the slope. It was still wet from water seeping from the remains of the house, the home that he had just seen for the very last time.

Epilogue

I have been meaning to write this piece for a long time. To me, this event sums up the dilemma of dementia and old age, and the fact that we are all involuntary creatures of habit. I want this to be a lesson or a warning to myself – and, possibly to the reader, too – on many levels; especially, if we stop caring and let ourselves go to seed. There eventually will come a time for all of us when we won’t be able to manage without the help of others.

I’m happy that my wife and I have brought up our family to look after each other. Coming as I did from a post-war dysfunctional household, I have made a point of eating out with my wife and children at least once a month, and taking them abroad or up to the ski slopes whenever I could – things I never had the chance to enjoy, even once, growing up in London. Thankfully, we all get together frequently and enjoy the warmth of each others’ company. As I write, I’m looking forward to Christmas dinner with our daughter and her wonderful husband at our favorite restaurant on the 25th, everyone getting together and playing with my adorable grandchildren over the New Year, taking little Lynn-chan skiing, and hearing lots of “Jījī, arigatōs!” (thank you, granddad!).

I take comfort in the thought that my children’s upbringing will stand us in good stead in later years.

Penned on December 20th, 2019

Poetry that is about the ancient capital or was set in Kyoto

Berryman on Ryoan-ji

Dream Song 73: Karesansui, Ryoan-ji by John Berryman
(from his visit to Kyoto in 1957)

The taxi makes the vegetables fly.
‘Dozo kudasai,’ I have him wait.
Past the bright lake up into the temple,
shoes off, and
my right leg swings me left.
I do survive beside the garden I

came seven thousand mile the other way
supplied of energies all to see, to see.
Differ them photographs, plans lie:
how big it is!
austere a sea rectangular of sand by the oiled mud wall,
and the sand is not quite white: granite sand, grey,

–from nowhere can one see all the stones–
but helicopters or a Brooklyn reproduction
will fix that–

and the fifteen changeless stones in their five worlds
with a shelving of moving moss
stand me the thought of the ancient maker priest.
Elsewhere occurs–I remember–loss.
Through awes & weathers neither it increased
nor did one blow of all his stone & sand thought die.

Photo by John Dougill

For a commentary on this poem, see the first page of a JSTOR article by Jack V. Barbera, first published in Modern Language Studies, vol 14, no. 4 (Autumn 1984). Those with access to JSTOR can of course see the whole article. (For an account of 1950s Kyoto, see this account by Hans Brinckmann.)

Review of ‘Tokyo: A Biography’

Book Review of Tokyo: A Biography by Stephen Mansfield (208 pages) Disasters, Destruction and Renewal: The Story of an Indomitable City

Reviewer: Ian Yates

Tokyo, the city, the metropolis, the legend, has always been overpowering to me. It has intimidated and frightened me by its vastness. This fear morphed into disdain and a belief that in some ways Tokyo was economically elitist, a sort of silver spooned child built on the hard work of the rest of the country. To be honest, these feelings lingered so much so that I have made it a hobby to on far too many occasions to announce: “Tokyo, that’s not the real Japan”.

For some reason these feelings have never been assuaged by the Osakans living around me.

So, how does someone give Tokyo a new look and a fair shake? How does someone take in something so enormous in size and scope? How does someone get a real grasp on this monster that is at the same time one city while also being its own country as well as multiple worlds. How does one encapsulate all that in 200 pages?

Well, the answer to all of the above is that you need a guide, and the better the guide the better all of those fears subside and the questions are answered.

Our guide in Tokyo: A Biography is the fantastic Stephen Mansfield. Mansfield is a journalist and photographer with decades of experience covering Asia for numerous publications (such as the Japan Times, Japan Quarterly, and Newsweek) and numerous books covering the areas of Laos, stone gardens, Japan, and more specifically, Tokyo.

Within the pages of Tokyo: A Biography, like the biography of any great boxing champion, Mansfield begins to make Tokyo accessible by illuminating its humble beginnings along with the innumerable setbacks throughout its growth. Describing the initial group of ronin and single men coming to Edo in the early development of Tokyo as a hub, Mansfield says of their living quarters,

Communal facilities included garbage dumps, the toilet and the well… rats were drawn to the garbage piles… sleeping conditions inside the row houses must have been suffocating… (and) in a normal year the Sumida River could be expected to flood twice, its inundations turning districts along its banks into quagmires of foul-smelling mud.

This certainly gives context to the sacrifices made of the initial inhabitants to build the great city today, and Mansfield’s accessible and straightforward writing style paints a picture of the hard work and dedication needed to build up Tokyo.

Continuing to guide us through time, Mansfield shows how our hard punching Edo grows into Tokyo and again, just when our champion appears to be unbeatable, how it comes up against three insurmountable opponents – Fire, Earthquake, War.

Though little of the basic history will come as a surprise, the advantage of having a brilliant guide shows itself again with Mansfield’s descriptions of these disasters. Speaking of those caught between two walls of fire after the devastating 1923 quake, Mansfield writes:

Tokyo was burning on both sides of the river… a strange phenomenon was taking place as fires in the Nihonbashi commercial district merged, then leapt across the river… those not lifted up by the spirals of flame and then dropped to the ground in molten balls of fire were caught under showers of sparks that set their belongings ablaze. Some 44,000 people perished at the depot. The bodies,  reduced to ashes, were placed in crude receptacles made from corrugated iron.

Only a true champion could take such punches and rise again, and again, and again. Mansfield gives us the story of a Tokyo with just enough sympathy to make anyone appreciate the tenacity of what it took to survive, let alone succeed.

However, Mansfield never refuses to confront some of the darker sides of Tokyo. The Koreans unjustly attacked as scapegoats and slaughtered in the midst of that same 1923 disaster are addressed and the shame of such human evil is never shied away from. Mansfield refuses to give us a polished and cleaned version of the history of Tokyo. While our guide certainly loves the capital, even such dark parts are examined without blinders.

Overall, this is a short examination that takes on a huge task. Anyone looking for more detailed research on any particular event will need to continue reading after this book. However, this is a wonderful short read for anyone without the time or inclination to go into more detail, and it may work (as it did for me) as a catalyst towards subjects that pique your interests.

In the end, maybe I was wrong about Tokyo, and maybe I need to change my attitude. Nevertheless, my reaction seems common, and at one point Mansfield himself addresses these feelings:

“Edokko” meaning “true child of Edo” prided themselves on being unproductive and expressed open contempt for pecuniary concerns… they were not universally liked. The diligent tradesmen of Osaka, for example, derided the Edokko as “rakes and profligates of Edo, hot-blooded but hairy-brained, putting assets into bottomless bags”.

So, maybe I will begin to respect Tokyo a bit more, but most likely I’ll justify my position as one backed historically and just start calling the businessmen of new Edo “hairy-brained”. One more nugget gained from the tremendous writing and guidance of Stephen Mansfield.

A worthy read from an interesting and well-informed author.

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For an account of Stephen Mansfield’s 2019 presentation to WiK, see here. For his review of the WiK Anthology 3, Encounters with Kyoto, please click here. For his amazon page with a list of his books, please see this link.

Featured writing

Hoshi Matsuri (Edward J. Taylor)

(Photos by Edward T. Taylor)

A small group of us met at Keage Station and began the walk up to Agon-shu’s huge Hoshi Matsuri event in the hills above Kiyomizu-dera. I’d been wanting to go for years, but always seemed to hear about it afterward, usually in that half-page ad in the Japan Times that the sect shells out big money for.

 Along the way, we passed many Agon-shu acolytes in their yamabushi-like clothing, hands together in gassho. The ones at the top greeted us with a simple, “Welcome home.” There were thousands of people up here (half a million I later heard), funneled down a narrow dirt road gone grey and muddy from the weekend’s snow. At the far end of the bottleneck was an open space with a small stage and many tables selling food and the wooden gomaki tablets on which people would write their prayers.

We were all given rice balls and complimentary black tea. It was a beautiful day, pleasant to stand in the sunshine and look around at the bizarre carnival aspect of it all. I hadn’t expected this. Men and women dressed somewhat like leprechauns worked the crowd, greeting and smiling, while an old man and a group of young women, all dressed as Daikokuten, danced on stage to traditional Japanese flutes and strings, singing a song with religious lyrics. It was like a psychedelic church camp. But when I left to find a bathroom, I began to notice something else. Walking among the crowd was a firsthand encounter with hive mind. I noticed how damaged many of these people looked. Japanese society is built with the mortar of fitting in, and walking the streets of any city is like strolling around Disneyland. Things are just too pristine. Up here, we could see ‘other.’ A few of them had blank, lifeless eyes.

I’m not going to call this New Religion a cult. And it’s hardly a new idea that religion offers refuge for those who are most desperate for it. Which is great. But too many confuse the finger for the moon, and history is rife with examples of those who do happen to find the moon on their own, later having their eyes poked out with those same fingers. I realize I’m biased. My own spirituality is based on compassion, but I have very little for religion itself. I’m working on transcending that irony.

We moved down the hill to the center of the hive itself. A large square stadium had been built to house this event. People stood and leaned on the rails ringing the site. The earthen floor below looked like the kind of setting where bulls – or Christians – delight spectators with their violent deaths. Two massive bonfires were going, one in honor of the dead, the other for the living, both the size of a modest house. More acolytes in yamabushi garb scurried around the latter, tossing in those wooden tablets on which people had written their prayers. Others splashed ladles of water over the whole thing, creating more smoke to ensure the delivery of said prayers. Apparently smoke is the snail mail of the gods. A taiko group kept the beat, very tight. Their high level of skill attests to how much they must practice. We leaned into the rail, breathless partly by all the smoke, mostly by the spectacle. At one point the crowd was hushed and asked to place our hands together in gassho. From below, the Heart Sutra began in a low drone, quickly spreading throughout the crowd.

The head of the sect stood up and began to make esoteric mikkyo hand gestures toward the flame. His assistant stood beside him, holding a huge paper umbrella about two meters in diameter over his master, following his every movement. The effect was like watching a sahib on safari, aiming at human souls. When he was finished, we all bowed our heads in silent prayer. The only sounds to be heard were the occasional pop! of exploding wood, and the far off sound of a politician-to-be pandering from the valley below. Suddenly, the chanting resumed and more gomaki tablets were thrown into the flames. The wood itself was scrap, recycled. What of the prayers themselves?

We tore ourselves away from this and wandered over to the temple itself. Along the way, three of us stopped to make sense of a sign describing planetary-based fortune telling of some kind. We were only there for a few minutes, but when we looked up, we found that we were part of another massive queue. Somebody joked that in Japan, if you stand still long enough, a line is sure to develop. We eventually made it up to the main temple. The massive open courtyard then was covered by a few new structures. One had a stage for kagura, and another seemed to have a foundation of solid concrete. When I later tapped it with my foot, it resounded with a hollow sounding thud. (I’ll let you supply your own metaphor here.)

We descended, following a trail beside which an old marker had the word “Maruyama” carved in stone. Somehow we got turned round and became lost. Our karma no doubt for the scepticism up above. Finally we wound up having to hop a small wall into the towering Okudani Cemetery. The sheer number of graves was staggering, evenly laid rows leading down the slope toward the borrowed scenery of downtown. One of our group said, “I can’t tell you how many times this happens. We’re walking along, get lost in the forest, and wind up in the cemetery.” I said nothing. Again, some metaphors are just too obvious.

Okudani Cemetery
Agon-shu’s main temple

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For more by Edward J. Taylor, please check out this travel piece along Korea’s east coast, or this personal account of Japan’s hosting of the World Cup, or this article on visiting Cuba, or this lighthearted look at walking along the Kamogawa.

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