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Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

Murakami’s Kyoto past

New Murakami article recounts memories of his late father

By MARIKO NAKAMURA/ Asahi, May 10, 2019 (see here for original)

Photo/Illutration

Haruki Murakami attends a speaking event at La Colline Theatre National in Paris on Feb. 23. (Asahi Shimbun file photo)

Influential novelist Haruki Murakami has spoken and written about many subjects in his long internationally acclaimed career, but one in particular has rarely got a mention: his father.

Breaking with tradition, Murakami, 70, tackles his late father’s time in the Imperial Japanese Army in China in the June issue of the monthly magazine Bungei Shunju.

The piece, “Neko o suteru: Chichioya ni tsuite kataru tokini boku no kataru koto” (Abandoning A Cat: What I Talk About When I Talk About My Father), came out on May 10.

At the start of the article, Murakami recounts a memory from when he was in elementary school of going out to abandon a cat with his father, Chiaki. When they returned home, the pair are spooked to find the cat has somehow already returned.

Murakami writes about the episode in his signature lyrical style. But his tone changes when he touches on his father’s war experience.

Chiaki was born the second son of a Buddhist priest in Kyoto in 1917. He was 20 and still in school when he was inducted into the Imperial Japanese Army’s 16th Division’s 16th Regiment as a soldier in a transport battalion in 1938.

When Murakami was in elementary school, his father told him that his troops once executed a captured Chinese soldier. “Needless to say, the barbaric sight of a human head getting cut off by a military sword was deeply etched into my young mind,” Murakami writes.

The impression was so strong, the author says, that he feels he has partially inherited the experience from his father.

Confronting wars and violence has been one of the most important themes throughout Murakami’s works.

“No matter how unpleasant things are and how much we want to look away from them, human beings have to accept such things as part of ourselves,” writes Murakami. “If not, where would the meaning of history lie?”

His relationship with his father became further strained after he became an author.

“We didn’t see each other at all for more than 20 years,” Murakami says in the article. Shortly before his father’s death in 2008, however, they “did something like a reconciliation.”

Murakami spent about another five years researching his father’s military record. “I met various people who had a relationship with my father, and little by little, I started listening to stories about him,” he writes.

Material resembling his father’s wartime experience has emerged in Murakami’s works. A character in “Kishidancho Goroshi” (Killing Commendatore), a long novel the author published in 2017, relates a war story similar to the one Murakami’s father told him.

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For the full article in the New Yorker written by Murakami about his father and grandfather, please click here. It’s a fascinating piece in which we learn a lot about the Kyoto past of Murakami’s family. His grandfather’s temple was Anyoji in Higashiyama, apparently at the back of Maruyama koen. His grandfather, the head priest, was killed at 70 by a train when crossing the Keishin Line to Otsu. The temple was taken over by Haruki’s uncle, and then by his cousin.

Murakami’s father was born in Awata-guchi, off Sanjo, and went to Higashiyama Junior High School. He was a devout Buddhist, and though he was drafted he somehow managed to evade the war proper and enrolled at Kyoto Imperial University in 1944 to study literature (he had a particular interest in haiku). Not long after he graduated at the age of 27, he had a son (Murakami Haruki in 1949) and moved to Nishinomiya to teach. Though there were no more children, the father-son relationship was strained and for 20 years they barely spoke, only being reconciled a few days before the father’s death in a Nishijin hospital.

Stephen Mansfield lunch talk

A life in writing
How do you make sense of the world if you’re restless by nature and always on the move? Over lunch at Kyoto University’s French restaurant, Stephen Mansfield gave an elegant and entertaining response.

When he was just 15 he hitchhiked from the UK to Yugoslavia, and while still young made trips outside Europe which included travelling with camel-dealers across the deserts of Sudan. An exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson led him into photography, and after becoming a freelance photojournalist he did commissions such as covering the Lebanese civil war.

By combining writing with his photography, he was able to create order out of his travels, and he found himself drawn to the attractions of Asia. One of the highlights of this period was a two hour interview with Aung San Suu Kyi. In 1990-1991 he made visits to Laos, which later became the focus of his first book – a coffee table photographic study which came out in 1997 after some 30 rejections (a lesson in persistence!).

Books followed on other countries, namely the Philippines and Japan, and it was the latter in particular on which he chose to focus. Despite starting a family, he continued to make trips collecting information and doing interviews while taking photos of food, architecture and urban renewal. And of course gardens, for which he has become well-known. In all, he reckons to have visited 430 Japanese gardens, of which he selected 100 to be featured in one of his many books.

To wrap up his talk, Stephen read out an essay he wrote after a visit to Donald Richie in his Tokyo apartment. It was a revealing portrait of the author, full of insight and delicate touches. Like his predecessor Lafcadio Hearn, Richie exemplified diligence and dedication to his craft, even scribbling away while in hospital. It was a fitting conclusion to an inspiring talk, and Writers in Kyoto is indebted to Stephen for coming all the way from Chiba and providing us with such fine fare our lunchtime gathering.

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For Stephen Mansfield’s review of the WiK Anthology 3, Encounters with Kyoto, please click here.

For his amazon page with a list of his books, please see this link.

Writers in focus

Japan Travel Guides (Publishers Weekly)

P U B L I S H E R S W E E K LY J U LY 2 9 , 2 0 1 9

An Olympian Effort BY JASMINA KELEMEN
Ahead of the 2020 Summer Games in Tokyo, publishers are setting their sights on Japan

Travel to Japan has soared in the past five years,
according to JTB Tourism Research &
Consulting,with the number of visits tripling to
31 million in 2018. Prime Minister Shinzo Abe
has taken steps to boost that number to 40 million
in 2020 by easing visa requirements and increasing inland
flights ahead of the Summer Olympics in Tokyo. Publishers are
hoping to capitalize on the growing interest, bringing forth a
slew of titles celebrating everything from the island nation’s
centuries-old temples to contemporary cosplay culture—with
plenty of stops for ramen and tonkatsu in between.

“Our travel publishing program has definitely been ramped up
for the Olympics,” says Christopher Johns, sales and marketing
director at Tuttle, which specializes in Asia-focused titles. “It’s
not just us; authors are also coming to us and saying, ‘We want
our books out for the Olympics.’ ”

The publisher, with offices in North Clarendon, Vt., and
Tokyo, releases books on a variety of topics including cooking,
language, and history, but through spring 2020, Johns says,
Tuttle expects to “vastly” expand travel titles that are geared
specifically for the Olympics. “We have three coming out and
by next spring expect to have eight more.”

The recently released second edition of A Geek in Japan by
Tokyo blogger Hector Garcia includes 30% more content than
the 2011 first edition, such as a new chapter on Kyoto. Much
of the book is devoted to explaining Japanese popular culture
to first-time visitors, with the final chapters suggesting places
to visit lists and sample itineraries. It’s Tuttle’s most popular
travel guide, Johns says, and, according to BookScan, nearly
27,000 print copies of the first edition have sold.

Manga artist and comic book author Evangeline Neo
approached Tuttle with her first foray into travel publishing, A
Manga Lover’s Tokyo Travel Guide
(Aug.). In it, an illustrated Neo
(with Kopi the dog and Matcha the cat at her side) leads manga
fans to memorabilia shops, anime museums, cosplay studios,
and drawing classes. Both books, Johns says, contain the kind
of idiosyncratic information that might otherwise elude trip
planners: “I don’t believe you can recreate them through a
Google search.”

Tuttle showcases ancient traditions
in Japan’s World Heritage Sites (Oct.) by John Dougill, a
retired professor at Ryukoku University in Kyoto. The book has been
updated to include all of the new UNESCO World Heritage
designations since it was last published in 2014. The smaller
trimsize and lower price ($24.99, from $34.95) is an effort to appeal to travelers who may be looking for a souvenir on the way home from Japan, Johns says; Tuttle sells its books at airport bookstores
throughout Asia, and in the English-language sections of
Japanese bookshops.

The country’s UNESCO sites are the launchpad for photographer
John Lander’s exploration of historical and natural
wonders in World Heritage Japan (River Books, Oct.), which
will be distributed in North America by ACC. The book was
not published with the Olympics in mind, says ACC v-p and
general manager John Brancati. Rather, it’s the culmination
of Lander’s work photographing his adopted home over the
last 35 years. Another longtime resident, travel writer Pico
Iyer, contributed the preface.

After 32 years in Japan, Iyer stills feels like a newcomer. As
he writes in the introduction to his forthcoming A Beginner’s
Guide to Japan
(Knopf, Sept.), which received a starred PW
review, “I call this a ‘beginner’s guide’ not only because it’s
aimed at beginners, but mostly because it’s written by one.”
Drawing on personal reflections and conversations with his wife
and other Japanese friends and family, Iyer’s observations act as
an entrée into a culture.

Swedish food writer Jonas Cramby explores one of Japan’s
most ubiquitous cultural exports in Tokyo for Food Lovers (Hardie
Grant, Aug.). He begins the book with a disclaimer: Given that
there are more than 150,000 restaurants in the city, “It is actually
impossible to write a restaurant guide for Tokyo.” Instead,
he’s produced a book that reflects his culinary “obsessions and
hang-ups,” he writes; topics include how to consume yakitori
(“Always eat the chicken straight off the skewer”) and the culture
of an izakaya (“a temple devoted to the art of grazing.”)

The book, part of the Food Lovers series originally published
in Swedish by Natur & Kultur, has been translated into English
for the first time (forthcoming guides in the series focus on Paris
and Rome). “We really loved the graffiti design and the authors’
focus on discovering new food trends in each destination,” says
Hardie publisher Melissa Kayser. Cramby covers Tokyo’s ramen
and sushi establishments but also devotes a chapter to “the
hipster generation’s embrace of folksy Japanese curry.”

Keys to the Country
Guidebook publishers are prepping new and revamped editions
in time to meet the expected crush of visitors. Moon
Japan (Jan. 2020), written by Tokyo journalist Jonathan
DeHart, is the publisher’s first Japan guidebook in 25 years and
was on the wish list for more than a decade, says Grace Fujimoto,
v-p of acquisitions at Moon.

Because of Fujimoto’s family ties to the country, getting the
book just so was especially important to her. “It was really hard
for me to find the right author,” she says. “Jonathan’s understanding
and appreciation of the culture was everything I
wanted.” The book guides travelers to a range of experiences,
offering suggestions for those who’d like to spend a contemplative
night in a countryside temple, for instance, as well as those
interested in experiencing the hyperefficiency of a capsule hotel
in the heart of Tokyo.

Wallpaper City Guide Osaka (Phaidon, Jan. 2020), which was
last published in 2014, is aimed at design-conscious travelers,
steering its readers to the most rigorously of-the-moment
restaurants, nightclubs, and art spaces.
Lost Guides author Anna Chittenden hopes to appeal to the
image-conscious traveler with Tokyo & Beyond (dist. by Cardinal,
Oct.). At nearly 150 listings, it’s the most ambitious of
Chittenden’s guides, she says, and though it concentrates on
Tokyo, it also includes day trips made accessible by the bullet
train, as well as a section on Kyoto. Entries are culled from her
favorite finds, such as a flea market stall that sells vintage
kimonos and a 10-seat Japanese-Italian restaurant hidden down
a back alley from Tokyo’s main business district.

Chittenden says she’s most enthusiastic about sharing experiences
that are enmeshed in traditional Japanese culture, such as
taking a flower arranging class whose tenets date to the seventh
century and spending the afternoon at an outdoor public bath.
Zipping through centuries of history in one of the world’s
most modern cities is likely to prove disorienting to many of
those setting their sights on Japan in 2020, no matter which
guide they take along with them. And that’s okay, Iyer writes in
A Beginner’s Guide , summing up assurances that can be found in
nearly all of the guides cropping up to assist the expected masses.
“You’ll be taking in the country as most of us do,” he adds,
“bumping from the strange to the familiar and back again.”

Japan Writers Conference

Something for everyone at Japan Writers Conference

September 27, 2019 By Kiri Falls / Japan News Staff Writer

Japan may seem an unlikely place for English-language novelists, poets and essayists to ply their trade, but if the annual Japan Writers Conference is any indicator, there is no shortage of opportunities for writers based here to find a niche.

This year’s conference — which will take place Oct. 12-13 in Tokyo — offers as much variety as ever, with presentations from writers, translators and editors with a broad range of experience.

Sessions include everything from writing about disability in children’s books, to using surrealist strategies to generate poems, and the pros and cons of the global online event National Novel Writing Month (NaNoWriMo). Poetry, mystery, flash fiction, historical fiction, science writing and memoir are just some of the genres touched on during the two-day event.

Co-organizer John Gribble emphasizes that it is not a “literary” conference, but one focused on the practical processes of writing and publishing.

“It has a DIY aspect,” he told The Japan News recently. “The question we ask of all potential presentations is: If someone is interested in writing, editing, publishing or translating, can they learn something?”

There will certainly be plenty of chances to learn, whether it’s in sessions that offer practical advice on publishing and building a writing career or those that get into the nuts and bolts of writing — dissecting plots, naming characters, writing sex scenes.

Less conventional presentations are crossing genre boundaries — such as one on how photo editing skills can help writers. Writer Sara Ellis is taking a novel approach, looking at how comic book layouts can give prose writers helpful clues for writing scenes.

“The JWC provides a bridge between the academic and creative. You’re allowed to get your weird on and be taken seriously at the same time,” Ellis told The Japan News by email.

There will be several firsts at this year’s event, such as a science writing workshop from RIKEN science communicator Amanda Alvarez and JAXA astrophysicist Elizabeth Tasker. Alvarez is also an organizer of the monthly event Nerd Nite Tokyo, which the Japan Writers Conference will collaborate with on its October event.

Another new addition is a two-part workshop for which participants had to submit a full novel draft in advance. Session leaders Holly Thompson and Mariko Nagai hope that by providing a deadline for people already working on a young adult or middle-grade novel and having them receive feedback in advance, the workshop will create a community and enable better revising.

“Writing groups often only have time to workshop one chapter or scene at a time … This program offers participants face-to-face workshop sessions to process the feedback, ask questions of the entire group, read revised work, and set the next round of revisions in motion,” Thompson said in an email to The Japan News.

The conference is free and no pre-registration is required — anyone can turn up on the day. This is part of the conference’s “egalitarian” nature, Gribble said, pointing out that a lot of people have writing responsibilities in their everyday jobs, even if they don’t think of themselves as writers.

Now in its 13th year, the conference had its highest-ever attendance at last year’s event in Otaru, Hokkaido. “There are a lot of fresh faces among the presenters this year,” Gribble said. It would seem Japan is still a good place for writers.

For more information visit: japanwritersconference.org

‘Encounters with Kyoto’ – Australian launch in Hobart Tasmania

A report written by Ruth Williams who calls Melbourne, Australia home. The launch took place on September 22, 2019.

Every good book deserves further acknowledgement and the third Writers in Kyoto Anthology qualifies. Following the Japanese launch held in Kyoto in June, an Australian launch took place in Tasmania in late September. This was fitting as both Jann Williams (the chief editor and designer) and Corinne Costello (the cover artist and daimonji illustrator) live on this beautiful island.

Friends, family and colleagues of both Jann and Corinne were thrilled when the Hobart launch was announced and delighted with the presentations, the venue, and the thoughtful provision of delicious hors d’oeuvres and a selection of wine and other beverages to enjoy.

Thanks goes to James Hampton for offering his restaurant Lizzie & Lefroy as the launch venue

After being welcomed by Michael Cromer, an accomplished practitioner in the local Urasenke tea group, the anthology was officially launched by Dr Heidi Auman (author, biologist and taiko player), who began by acknowledging the traditional owners of the land on which we met that day.

Not surprisingly, and indeed satisfyingly for the audience, Heidi’s focus was largely on the contributions to the anthology made by Jann and Corinne, drawing on an interview with the chief editor. This gave the audience insights into the many steps along the way involved in producing the publication. Heidi declared the anthology to be full of ‘elegance, balance, beauty and honesty’, adding ‘to sum it up would be to express a sense of ‘Ahhh!’ that resonates with an energetic sense of knowing.’

Heidi receiving applause and appreciation after launching the third WiK Anthology in Hobart, Tasmania

This was the perfect lead into Jann William’s talk. The audience was interested to learn of the role Jann played as chief editor: to create a publication of which the authors would be proud, and that readers would find stimulating and new. Based on the early response to the anthology, this aim was indeed achieved.

Jann informed us that the Kyoto launch was three months ago ‘to this day’, occurring on the Summer Solstice in Japan. (Winter in the Southern Hemisphere.) There was a pleasing sense of serendipity that the Hobart launch should occur on the Spring Equinox in Australia, especially with Jann’s interest and knowledge of the seasons through her work on the elements.

There were many people for Jann to thank, particularly the anthology writers and illustrators for their efforts and her siblings Ruth, Hugo and Rod for travelling from Melbourne for the launch

Jann read from Ken Rodger’s compelling and reflective essay in the anthology, as well as her contribution, Shinsen’en, a Heian-kyo Power Spot. The audience learnt that it is only a five-minute walk from where she stays when in Kyoto. You could almost see people wondering if they could drop by Jann’s lodgings for a visit and tour of the area!

A very appreciative audience. Some who have already travelled to Kyoto, reminiscing

Corinne Costello brought a strong sense of wonder and artistry to the event. She began by reading from Alan S. Weiss’ anthology story, An Intercalary Moment. Alan’s reference to ‘the hour entre chien et loup… a transformative moment’, correlated closely with Corinne’s interest in the Japanese concept of ‘ma’ (the space between two structural parts) in art. The audience were clearly fascinated with Corinne’s insights and many attendees spoke with her after the official launch.

Corinne fills the space between one of her beautiful works and a captive audience

Sometimes it is good to be reminded of the space between things. To acknowledge ‘the silence between the notes that make the music’. (*) The combination of ‘notes’ that have been brought together to create Encounters in Kyoto has resulted in a precious anthology, where the sum is more than its parts.

May the Australia-Japan connection continue for many years to come.

(*) When Less is More: Japanese “MA” concept, minimalism and beyond” wawaza.com

Featured writing

WiK featured in national press

The Japan Times puts out a daily newsletter called Take 5 which takes the pick of current content and links to archived material. Item no. 5 in the Wednesday Sept 25 edition was of particular interest for WiK, as you can see in the piece below…
5. Foreign writers in Japan, a century apart 

In the Books section, Jason James explores British author William Plomer’s 2½-year stay in Japan in the 1920s, during which he developed a complex relationship with the country, loving its theater and culture but hating the rising tide of nationalism. Plomer was ahead of his time in many ways. His opposition to racism is one example, but he also decried the “enslavement of women” in Japan, as well as the frequency of suicides, which he described as “annoyingly common.” Both these themes feature strongly in “Paper Houses,” his 1929 Japan-themed volume of short stories, writes James. In the buildup to World War II, Plomer wrote, “I detest their tendency to nationalistic paranoia and their particular politico-religious superstitions …  which, if persisted in, will have terrible results.”
Author William Plomer had many close Japanese friends and lovers, and the utmost respect for Japan’s culture, but became alarmed by the spread of fascism. | THOMAS KILBURN
Contributing writer Stephen Mansfield recalls acclaimed Japan writer Donald Richie lamenting the lack of an English-language literary salon in the country, an omission that forced him to live “alone in the library of my skull.” Were Richie alive today, Mansfield says, he would likely be a fully paid-up member of Writers in Kyoto, a group of authors whose influence is already being felt in literary circles.Founded by writer John Dougill in 2015, Writers in Kyoto was formed with the purpose of creating, they say, a “sense of community” to “help foster a literary culture for published English-language authors associated with the city.” Mansfield finds plenty to praise in their new collection, with its writing “by turns studied, witty and rancorous.”

Featured writing

Hello World – Anime Kyoto

Kyoto has long been seen as a magical locus for fantastical happenings. Not only is it the cultural heart of the nation, but it has a rich legacy of the unseen. This is after all the home of ancestral spirits, of Daimonji, of Inari and Tenjin and a host of Buddhist deities. It is a city of power spots and time slips, where the supernatural is an integral part of the religious heritage. History is very much present in the fabric of the city.

This makes Kyoto popular with anime artists, who use the city as a base for imaginative flights of fancy. Inari Konkon and Uchouten Kazoku (Eccentric Family) are just two of the anime films to exploit the otherworldly nature of the city. Now comes news of a major new addition to the genre – Hello World – which takes a Matrix view of the ancient capital. What follows is an introduction by the Japan Times entitled ‘Hello World’: Kyoto as you’ve never seen it before.

HELLO WORLD by Matt Schley, Sept 18, 2019, Japan Times

If you’ve studied the basics of computer programming, you’ll probably recognize the phrase “hello world.” It’s the textbook-recommended line of text learners type into their first program, then delight as it pops up on screen.

The new anime film “Hello World” centers around a computer program, albeit one slightly more complicated than a line of text. The film opens in Kyoto in the year 2027, on what seems to be a normal day for high school student Naomi Katagaki (Takumi Kitamura), a young man who’s obsessed with reading and short on friends.

On his way home from school, Naomi encounters a mysterious older man (Tori Matsuzaka) who knows his name and everything about him. The man, it turns out, is an older version of Naomi himself. And here’s where the computer program comes in: Young Naomi’s entire world is actually a giant computer simulation, the Kyoto of the near past preserved down to the last detail for future generations to study.

Coming soon to Japan cinemas

The older Naomi has somehow hacked his consciousness into this computer simulation for a single purpose — to get his younger, computer-simulated self a girlfriend. The object of his affection is Ruri Ichigyo (Minami Hamabe), a similarly bookish, brusque girl who seems immune to what little charms Naomi has to offer. But get together they must, says Naomi 2, or his younger self won’t be able to protect Ruri from being injured and falling into a coma the night of the upcoming summer festival.

Meanwhile, as Team Naomi begins to alter the timeline, the computer simulation’s anti-corruption software — which takes the form of creepy, hunchbacked creatures wearing fox masks — enters the picture, trying to put things back the way they were by force.

What’s the point, you may be asking, of the older Naomi trying to change the past if it’s all just a computer simulation? Without getting into spoiler territory, let’s just say the dividing line between these two worlds is less solid than it initially appears.

The hazy border between flesh-and-blood worlds and computer-generated ones is a well-worn theme for “Hello World” director Tomohiko Ito, best known for helming popular anime series “Sword Art Online.” In this film, he stretches that theme to its limits, building to a climax that will either thrill or frustrate depending on how much you value comprehensibility (if someone could explain the final shot to me, that’d be great, thanks).

But while the ideas get complex, Ito and screenwriter Mado Nozaki never forget to ground their story around its characters. The interactions between Naomi and his grown-up counterpart are well-written and charming. The same goes for young Naomi and Ruri, whose unlikely relationship blossoms in a way that doesn’t feel forced. Small details keep our heroes’ personalities in mind: When bookworm Naomi receives baddy-busting powers, he doesn’t wield a gun or sword, but a giant enemy-thwapping book.

A significant portion of the characters’ charm comes from designer Yukiko Horiguchi, known for Kyoto Animation works like “Lucky Star” and “Tamako Market.” The characters in “Hello World” are animated in CG, a method that’s been making serious inroads in anime production. With a few exceptions aside, one serious roadblock in replicating the appeal of hand-drawn anime in CG has been the uninspiring character designs. I’m still not 100 percent on-board for the whole CG thing, but “Hello World” is one of the best-looking examples I’ve seen to date.

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For the official trailer, see this link on Youtube

Featured writing

Oysters to Die For (Simon Rowe)

‘Fragrant Harbor’ they called it. But Hong Kong was anything but fragrant the night Poh Seng Pang flew in. The air outside the terminal was dank, vegetative—like the smell of the Singapore River in wet season, or the streets of the Jurong Wholesale Market after a deluge. Poh found it strangely comforting.

He checked his Citizen Quartz Titanium; almost dinnertime in Singapore. Betty would be taking first customers at her small chicken-rice stand inside the Hawkers Centre. He tried not to eat on the plane; ‘airline food’ was an oxymoron and it gave him constipation. But this time he’d missed his wife’s lunch in the rush to the airport and had reluctantly accepted the airline offerings; a decision he now regretted as he stood clutching his small overnight bag on the concourse. 

Beyond the terminal, rain fell. With no wind to speak of, it drifted down in an almost vertical fashion across the runway, hangars and the harbor beyond. A black Toyota Lexus sat idling at the end of the taxi rank, its exhaust steaming the night air. The driver was old-school—silver crew cut, permanent scowl, a real toothpick-chewer. His gaze met with Poh’s in the rear view mirror. He lowered his newspaper and the rear passenger door clicked. Poh pulled on the handle and climbed in. They exchanged single-syllable greetings and the car moved away from the curb to join the swirl of courtesy buses, catering trucks, rental cars and limousines leaving Chek Lap Kok island for Kowloon and the night beyond. 

Poh was feeling pensive tonight. This would be his last assignment. On his return to Singapore, he would formally tender his resignation. At 58, he was getting too old to be a “shipping agent”. 

He was looking forward to retirement; he’d help Betty at the chicken-rice stand, maybe join a mahjong club, and take more of an interest in his daughter’s studies in Australia. Microbiology, wasn’t it? What did he know about microbiology? Except that you should always wash your hands after flying because, as his daughter insisted, ‘airplanes are crawling with bacteria.’

Poh yawned. 

The travelling, the hotel rooms, the waiting—the waiting was the real killer. He’d read somewhere that the average human spends a year of their life waiting. The only thing that made the waiting bearable, besides the money, was dining. He loved sampling the specialties of each town and city he visited: the dumplings in Taipei, Medan chicken curry in Sumatra, pork noodles in Sabah, suckling pig in Bali. Dining was his real pleasure, but only after a job was done, and even then it had to be a quick meal en route to the airport. 

He slumped back in the seat, listening to the timbre of the windshield wipers working away the rain. Why had he chosen this line of business? Actually, he hadn’t chosen this business; it had chosen him. His talent had been recognised early. The recruitment process had been quick, the training minimal and his first assignment issued within a few weeks. 

He had never botched a job. Granted, it was possible. Once, in a Kuching hotel, his gun had jammed. The target had woken with his call girl beside him and he’d had to knuckle-dust them both. Then he’d smothered the target with a pillow and walked. He never killed women—as a rule—and he was glad he’d never been put in a situation where he’d had to choose between a woman’s life and his own. It was another reason to retire.

Read the rest of this story in the book here
or more from Simon Rowe on Writers in Kyoto here.

Writers in focus

Plum Rains on Happy House (Michael Greco)

A Writers in Kyoto Interview with Michael Greco.

  1. Could you tell us briefly about how you came to Kyoto?

I’m the only person I know who actually came to Japan by boat, landing in 1983 after living several months in Russia, then the Soviet Union. My major at UC Irvine, near Los Angeles, was Russian, and after graduation I joined a student tour group, living several weeks in different Russian cities, and gradually traveling eastward on the Trans-Siberian Railroad. Another American in the group, who was far more organized than myself, had an edition of Lonely Planet that I began to browse, and I remember my jaw dropping upon reading I could make all of forty dollars an hour teaching English in Japan! Wow! Before learning this, my plan was to see Tokyo, then visit Australia, before returning home.

As the ship sat in Yokohama harbor waiting for processing, I asked a Japanese gentleman where Tokyo was, and he simply waved his hand at the enormous brown smudge in the distance. I remember thinking, ‘Oh, so it’s a lot like Los Angeles.’

But the smudge seduced me that first night. I was transfixed by the non-stop, electrifying neon of the early 80s. After all, I’d just spent five months in sleepy Russia, where the entertainment consisted of making friends, drinking, dancing and complaining of the food. I knew I would stay that first night in Shinbashi. The earthquake and subsequent catastrophes of 2011 prompted my family (we had a two-year-old at the time) to leave Tokyo and return to Los Angeles.

But Japan is in the blood. We came back in 2013, this time to Kyoto.

  • How and when did you take up writing? 

I started writing in my later years. I wasn’t ready when younger, wandering with story ideas that were only half-baked, unable to express myself through prose in any real way. I write now because I can’t not write. Just ask my family: If I’m not plugging away at something, I’m not much fun to be around.

I write for myself, not for the market. I have no idea what will sell, but as long as I’m happy with a story, I will show it. I don’t know if I’m going to make any money doing this, but I don’t write to get rich. I do it for another, deeper satisfaction. I also write for the person I know best: myself.

I’ve settled on comic fantasy as a literary genre. Humor with thoughtful undertones. Visionary. Metaphysical. Childish. But I’m not for children. I write about teens, but not necessarily for them. My sub-genre might be: weird fiction. But Amazon has yet to make a category for that.

  • Your novel Plum Rains on Happy House is set in a transmogrified Kyoto with a touch of the grotesque. How did you conceive of the idea? 

“Plum Rains on Happy House” is a result of personal experiences of living in Tokyo and not having any money. If you’re broke, you often live in a guest house (or gaijin house). I’ve lived in a few, though none were as interesting as the one in Kawasaki, which is the model for “Happy House”. I lived there, thinking the whole time: ‘Somebody has got to write a story about this craziness!’

Book cover of "Plum Rains on Happy House".
Book cover of “Plum Rains on Happy House”.

The novel is really a detective story. A fellow named Harry invites the protagonist, nicknamed the Ichiban, to Japan. But the residents of Happy House all deny any knowledge of this mysterious Harry. Readers may pick up on the references to the 1973 film The Wicker Man, about a policeman who is lured to a Scottish island to investigate the report of a missing child. It’s a game of deception. The islanders are playing with him. The paganism and the sexual activity the sanctimonious policeman finds so objectionable are simply part of the selection process—to see if he possesses the characteristics to burn in their wicker effigy so that the village will have subsequent successful harvests. In “Plum Rains on Happy House”, the Ichiban must undergo his own horrific sacrifice to appease the house.  The novel is a tribute to that remarkable film, and it has the same basic plot lines, but I’ve laid down hearty layers of satire and side stories.

In creating the residents of Happy House, I mingled the characteristics of a few of the unique people I’ve met over the decades in Tokyo and in Los Angeles. In some cases, I didn’t need to exaggerate at all. The residents of the house had to be distinctively quirky, and I didn’t know how bawdy things were going to become, or how much depravity would creep its way into the story. But once I had the characters, they took charge and I relegated myself to being, more or less, their stenographer.

I’ve mixed in a lot of elliptical dialogue I feel compliments the baffling idiosyncrasies of Japan that newcomers have a hard time handling. I’ve also structured the story within the sometimes vexing stages of culture shock, which frame the Ichiban’s misadventures, and eventual acceptance, of the house—which has its own plans. After all, the old guesthouse is haunted:

“Happy House is an amoeba everlasting, a floating world—capturing and sealing the self-indulgence of the red-light districts, the bordellos and the fleeting, delightful vulgarity of ancient Japan, an eternal time capsule of the flamboyant and the boorish.”

The dichotomy of substance versus form also plays an important part in underscoring the tension—in the way one swings a tennis racket, or walks in a swimming pool, or plays baseball, or eats particular dishes: What should predominate—what you are doing or how you are doing it?

On another level, the story examines language acquisition and the role of structure within the learning process. The residents all have their various opinions: As teachers, should English be taught through some kind of lock-step formula, or would one be better off approaching the pedagogy in a more hands-off manner, rather like painting? Everyone seems to have an opinion. The idea of structure comes to the forefront again when discussing what one character, Sensei, calls the hidden structure of the house, which, like the neighborhood (or any cityscape in Japan) appears as an amorphous sprawl. But look underneath this sprawl and one sees the organism. The randomness, or chaos, embraces a flexible, orderly structure, likening the house to an amoeba that has the ability to alter its shape. Similarly, this amoeba can be seen as a microcosm of Japan as a whole.

  • You have published and marketed your books yourself, I believe. Could you tell us about the experience?

Indie publishing is a great way to get your stories out there. I’ve only been doing it for a little over a year, but I’m happy having all this control over my own stuff. It’s taken a while, but now that I (somewhat) understand what I’m doing, I’m approaching publishers, just to gauge interest.

Through stores like Amazon, anyone can now market their own work. I’ve never taken a prose writing class. I wouldn’t know a support group from an A.A. meeting. I don’t know what a writers’ retreat is (though it sounds restful). I write alone. With a house pet—a gentle cat named Howard. I have friends that will read stuff for me, and I have an editor who will lend me his professional eyes. I often use Fiverr.com for book covers and for formatting. No self-publishing workshops for me (even though the half-day sessions are only $79—and what a great way to get yourself out there; what’s wrong with me?)

I write alone, mumbling incoherently as I do so. “Mom says you’re talking to yourself again,” my daughter will yell through the door of my tiny study. I’m an indie writer. I’m self-employed. The mumbling—it’s a staff meeting. Sometimes I have to raise my voice to make a point. But she can hear me in the kitchen, which is directly below. They’re always lively meetings. Lots to discuss.

I also do all my own stunts. But never intentionally. I lack exercise because I spend that time writing. It’s what writers do—we spend all this time with ourselves when we should be out exercising and considering our overall health picture. But how can I leave the study when my new story-baby is so underdeveloped, so sickly? Revision is the only remedy. Lots of rewriting.

James Michener said: “I’m not a good writer, but I’m an excellent rewriter.”

The stories get better, tighter, with revision. If we want to achieve a level of accomplishment in the world of story-telling, then all the alone time is merely the price of admission.

  • Finally, what are your favourite books about Japan, and why?

I couldn’t get my hands on all that much in the 80s, but Reischauer’s “The Japanese” was the most enlightening. I remember enjoying a few tongue-in-cheek books on getting by in The Big Mikan. In the early 90s I was impressed by Karl Van Wolferin’s “The Enigma of Japanese Power”, as well as Alex Kerr’s “Dogs and Demons” later on. Recently, because I’m ignorant of the history and culture of Kyoto, I picked up John Dougill’s “Kyoto: A Cultural History” — and it whet my appetite for more on this captivating city.

I’ve read a lot of Japanese fiction, but I’m always on the lookout for comedic or satirical perspectives on this country we live in. “Plum Rains on Happy House” is a somewhat skewering lampoon on both Japan and those Non-Japanese that have chosen to live here. The story is a twisted, genuine way of looking back at ourselves, employing (I hope) memorable characters that make memorable tales.

I think that’s my job, my goal—to write characters and stories that are absurd, violent, childish, but that resonate with truth.  

Plum Rains on Happy House:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQ3R68

Michael Greco’s Short Biography

California ex-pat Michael Greco as lived in Asia for over 25 years, and his stories are dappled with the character and spirit of Asian communities. He teaches writing in university and has jotted extensively about the joy and frustration of the creative process. He has written for the Asahi Shinbun newspaper in Tokyo, and received his master’s degree in theoretical linguistics, in Los Angeles. He is a regular contributor to The Japan Times and the online journal The Font. Michael lives in Kyoto, Japan, with his wife, daughter, and a honey-sweet cat named Howard. He uses Japan as a springboard for his frequent forays to other regions of the world, often with his 10-year-old as a travel companion. 

Writers in focus

Embracing the Nijojo Circuit (Jann Williams)

Running is not an activity you associate with my family. So says my brother Rod.

This is true in recent decades. Vigorous exercise has not been our forte. That changed when I was lured to join the regular circuit runners around Nijojo (Nijo Castle) in Kyoto. A 2 km circuit that encircles the castle, its moat and the surrounding hedge.

Aerobic exercise has a long and positive connection with creative writing. Walking is recommended as the most natural way to enhance creativity and stimulate insights.

I love to walk, and now I love to run. As well as helping my fitness and ability to climb mountains, it has opened new worlds to delight and stimulate the senses.

Early morning is the best time to run I find. As do many others, of all ages and levels of fitness. These companions, especially those in their elder years, motivate me to start the day in a good way.

Most of us run or walk anti-clockwise except for one gentleman who defies the norm. He is yet to say hello when he passes by. I hope that will change, as it has with others as I become a regular.

Every day is different around the castle, the moat and the hedge. Many surprises have revealed themselves since I started running around 12 months ago.

What first seemed like a biological desert of hedge and lawn, with planted Sakura and pine trees, has turned out to be far from it. The Nijojo circuit provides homes for many.

As the seasons progress different plants and animals present themselves, often in subtle ways. It is important to have your eyes and mind wide open so not to miss them.

My most exciting discovery has been the thousands of spiral orchids (Spiranthes sinensis) growing between the moat and the hedge during tsuyu, the rainy season.

Thousands of spiders use the hedge as habitat, their flat extended webs catching the raindrops like ephemeral jewels.

In the heat of summer the cicadas sing. The hedge provides resting spots for their metamorphosis. They are beautiful to behold.

Along the front of the castle, where there is a fence rather than a hedge, myriad mushrooms complete their life cycle and disappear until the next suitable season.

On the water two herons hunt, ducks swim above and carp below, water-striders lightly touch the surface. In summer, water plants are profuse.

Profusion is also found in abundance in Spring as the Sakura burst forth with their canopy covering floral display.

And then there is the entrancing interplay of light and shadow, changing with the time of day, the amount of cloud and the position of the sun. The shadows of the pine trees in the bright light are striking. So too the glorious orange/pink bark touched with the morning rays.

Pine trees also feature in my favourite conditions to run – just after it has rained. There is something very special about water droplets on pine needles.

The castle, the moat and the hedge. My ‘go to’ place for running and revelation when I find myself in Kyoto.

Perhaps it is in the blood after all. My brother Rod ran a world peace marathon in Russia in his youth. Now it is my turn to pound the pavement.

All photos taken by Jann Williams on her runs around Nijojo.
For other experiences see:  https://elementaljapan.com/.

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